- IP Address:
Let's start to break things down gradually. The first two points that form the foundation of any anti-fraud system are the cleanliness of the IP. If you think that simply using a VPN or setting up a proxy is enough, I must disappoint you. VPNs and proxies can easily be identified through open ports, reverse ping, WebRTC check and several other more complex methods that I won't explain, as it would take several pages and not everyone would understand.
Any use of a VPN or dirty proxy will immediately raise a red flag.
https://www.ipqualityscore.com/ - here you can check the quality of your IP - registration is free of charge

- Email Address:
Next, let's move on to a simple indicator like the email address. It might seem like there’s nothing easier than this—just register a new Google email and go sign up on Amazon. However, I hate to break it to you, but all anti-fraud systems have long been checking emails through what's known as an email reputation check. This includes verifying the date the email address was created, its activity, and its connection to social networks (which is checked when registering a new account - and it's a reference to Digital Footprints).

What is a digital footprint?
A digital footprint includes things like comments you make on websites, posts or pictures you share on social media, and any instances where your email address appears, whether on mailing lists or other places.
Here are some examples of a digital footprint linked to an email address:
- A Facebook profile linked to that email
- A Skype profile with your email, public name, and shared information
- A Google account that exists
- A Linkedin profile with a username
- And another 50 different social networks, messengers, etc.
Why does this matter?
When it comes to preventing fraud, having a digital footprint—and not having one—is equally important. It's hard for a fraudster to pretend to be a real, trustworthy customer if they lack this online history.

-Device Intelligence:
There is nothing complicated about this - it is based on the parameters by which your device is identified and whether it has been previously involved in any activity.
Cookie Hash
Generated ID of the browser cookie session. If 2 users share this, it’s certain they are using the same browser and device. If the browser’s cookie and cache is being cleared, a new cookie hash will be associated with the device.
Browser Hash
A string of numbers and letters created to map data related to a user’s browser. In a way, it serves as the browser’s ID, used to identify the browser and user by the party who created the hash to begin with. This also means that it can help tell whether two users are accessing a website from the same browser.
Device Hash
A generated string of characters that contains information about the device and its user (e.g. local date and time, operating system version and type, GPU, screen data and more). Each hardware configuration (but not each individual device) has a unique ID. This helps find connections between seemingly different users. In mobile devices, the device hash serves as a unique identifier.

Collecting Parameters from Browsers:
-Cookie hash
-Browser hash
-Unique device hash / identifier
-Timezone of browser and IP
-Operating system detection
-Useragent information
-Private browsing detection
-Operating system, browser languages
-Screen size of device, browser, windows
-Installed fonts and generated hash
-Installed plugins and generated hash
-Battery level
-GPU information
-Browser features: flash, java etc.
-Canvas device fingerprint
-Audio fingerprint
-WebRTC IPs
-DNS: Geo + ISP

Collected Parameters from iOS Devices
-Unique device hash / identifier
-Accessories information
-Audio information
-Battery information
-CPU information
-Advertising Identifier (ADID)
-Device name
-Device orientation
-Unique Device Identifier (UDID)
-iCloud ubiquity token
-iOS version data
-Jailbreak status
-Emulator detection
-Kernel information
-Boot information
-Network configuration
-Pasteboard data
-Memory information
-Proximity sensor data
-Local language
-Local timezone
-Screen brightness
-Screen resolution
-System uptime
-Storage information
-MAC address
-Wifi SSID
-TCP/IP Fingerprint
-Passive SSL/TLS handshake analysis

So what's better? An anti-detect browser or a new mobile device?

The answer is clear - a mobile device. It’s best to use it just once. It doesn’t necessarily have to be new. The process is simple - you buy a used or new smartphone from one of the major marketplaces (Facebook Marketplace, eBay, Craigslist, etc.). For optimal results, an iPhone starting from the 8th version is most suitable (if you're not using eSIM or mobile internet for esim iphone XS and newer), or any cheap Android device if you plan to use a physical nano-SIM or share internet from another mobile device.

In both cases, the effectiveness of this method depends on your location. With either option, you will have an advantage over anti-detection systems – fraud protection systems can detect anti-detect browsers and at most, you can create only two different new accounts before being identified. It might be possible to do mor if your anti-detect browser is running on macOS, as all Apple devices share the same internal hardware identifiers across their hardware lines. In any case, your Mac OS device will be identified; it will just happen a bit later.

What are the advantages of using new mobile devices each time? Lower costs and higher success rates for orders. Right after you’ve used a device, sell it in the same place you bought it and purchase another one - this way, you achieve maximum success at almost zero cost. At one time, you can “warm up” several mobile devieces – it’s easiest for beginners to manage 1-2 devices per week to avoid confusion. To start understanding the system, I would recommend buying 2 smartphones and begin “warming up” accounts on them, gradually increasing the number of devices. This way, you could easy manage around 8-10 new highly trusted accounts each month.

To everyone planning to follow this guide, I recommend purchasing a couple of mobile devices that you will use for your work and not turning them on yet.
There will be a post ahead about preparing the device for work, setting up the network connection, and one of the most crucial steps - Velocity IP/Checks, or as I call it - patience is the key to success.

Velocity Rules/Checks refer to a set of user behavior patterns that deviate from the average. For instance, attempts to complete a transaction with multiple new cards, changing passwords or emails before making a large transaction, and so on. This broad concept applies to all industries that utilize anti-fraud systems, including banking, gambling, and cryptocurrency exchanges.

I will specifically discuss this in the context of online shopping, particularly Amazon. You should closely align your behavior with that of an average user. Even if you are using a new device and follow all my previous tips, it may not be enough. A typical new user wouldn’t place an order for $300-1000 immediately after registration. If such a purchase occurs, you risk receiving an AVS hold.

A new user usually compares prices across different online stores, explores the category of interest, and reads reviews—this process is what we call "building cookies." Here is a suggested timeline for Amazon:

Day 1: You arrive at Amazon through a Google search (Amazon records your search query) and start exploring a product.
Day 2: You register on Amazon, add your address and credit card information (make sure to add all potential addresses and cards you plan to use).
Day 3 and onward: Continue browsing items in your chosen category (ideally 30-50 items).
Day 5: Place a small order, such as chips, coffee, socks, or detergent.

The goal is to mimic the behavior of a typical user. It would raise red flags for the anti-fraud system if a new user immediately orders high-risk items like Apple devices. If I were to stray from the topic of velocity rules, I would advise against ordering Apple devices if your account is less than a month old and you have not made at least ten small orders.
If done correctly, the odds of receiving an AVS hold on your second and subsequent small warm-up orders are minimal. However, you should avoid adding and shipping to new addresses, changing your credit card, or altering your password or email. If you change any of these parameters, allow your account to "rest and adjust to the new information" for about a week. Some issues can be mitigated if Amazon offers you a 3DS transaction, which can significantly reduce the fraud score during processing, as per the agreement between the merchant and the international payment systems Visa/MC. In cases of fraud, the responsibility for the transaction falls entirely on the payment system.

Why these strict rules? After all, you are a legitimate and law-abiding customer. The majority of fraud is linked to unauthorized transactions made with stolen credit cards, and all these protective measures are primarily aimed at combatting this category of criminals. A person who has stolen a credit card isn’t likely to wait 5-10-15 days and attempt to make small orders, as there is a significant risk that the legitimate cardholder will block the card. Amazon's anti-fraud system and AVS holds are primarily designed to tackle this issue, and you simply need to play by the rules I've outlined above.

I forgot to mention a few points regarding preparing your device for use—it's quite simple.

First, turn off the geolocation feature. You can register a new Apple ID or use an existing one, but make sure it hasn't had the Amazon app installed before. You can also install any browser from the Apple Store.

Before accessing Amazon, log into your (not your real) social media accounts, as I outlined in previous posts—Amazon will reference these during the registration process and during every transaction.

👍 It so happened that the discussion of all questions moved to the chat - as long as I don't get tired of answering questions - feel free to join and ask. 👍

Here you will find services that you often ask about in the chat...

proxy/socks5 services:
https://nsocks.net
https://asocks.com
Pluses: Often found with IpScore=0
Minuses: Public frequently used and perhaps at one point, you will find yourself on the same account with someone else from the same IP address (I highly recommend using shared mobile IP from your mobile device)

Check IP services:
https://t.me/zpcnyNEW_bot - One free check per day, but within 3 resources
https://www.ipqualityscore.com - free registration through google account , 100 free checks, one database, but it's enough

Bypass amazon ID/AVS verify check with scans:
https://onlyfake.org/ - Automatic rendering, many countries, price
https://t.me/+oO8PTWzKnfNjYmI8 - manual mode, high quality

I’ve been getting a lot of messages about accounts getting blocked after failed refund attempts. Most of the time, this happens because the account isn’t ready for a refund – it’s frustrating, but it’s not the end of the world. You always have the option of a chargeback. If you read Amazon’s terms and conditions (which most people ignore when signing up), you’ll see how well they protect themselves from issues related to purchases on their site. They can really do almost anything; for instance, one common situation is when a customer tops up their gift balance with a gift card and then gets their account permanently blocked, with no way to get their money back if there’s even a hint of suspicion or what they call abnormal activity or violating our agreement. (This is actually mentioned in Amazon’s rules, and they have the right to do this.)
But there’s another side to this. Since Amazon is the largest marketplace in the world, they also see the most chargebacks, and their strict policies make them even tougher than other marketplaces. Banks usually handle chargebacks for Amazon transactions quite reasonably, as even Amazon doesn’t dispute chargebacks due to their high volume – it’s just how their business works.

The most common complaint I hear is: “My account was closed, and I got a letter from OFM; I sent the item back, but I still haven’t received a refund even after a month.” Or, “I received an empty box, told Amazon support about it, but my account was blocked after I provided the police report that they asked for.”

In any of these situations, I can help you create a solid case so you can get your money back from the payment system without any issues for your bank account. Unfortunately, unlike all the other information I share for free on my channel, this service won’t be free because each case is looked at individually and takes time to prepare a strong case to ensure you successfully get your money back from an unsuccessful experience with Amazon. The good news is that there’s a 90% success rate, and it only depends on your bank (the other 10% involves using a wise virtual card, which has a 70% success rate).

In any case, you will first get a free consultation where I’ll explain the timeline and your chances of success. I work with banks all over the world and in any language.
Contact @AmzAntifraudGuide

Promised to consider individual training in the new year. What I can offer in future, besides what is already available for free in the channel:

- Setting up a new device.
- Configuring and checking network parameters and potential leaks.

We will work with 2 accounts simultaneously:
- Your new account for which I will provide an aged digital fingerprint (1-3 years old email + 5-6 registered social networks).
- My handmade warmed account at amz.com with a registration date of over 6 months and 6-10 orders.

- Timeframes to avoid holds when changing devices.
- Knowledge on avoiding AVS hold on the first order (Instant order method).
- Consultation on verification issues (bonus)

What you'll get in the end:
- One new account, but after training, it will be warmed up for your domain and ready for main order.
- One old account, but with an order delivered worldwide to your address from amz.com, which you can refund and recoup part of the training cost.
- PR refund training + getting a real police report number online (as a bonus).
- The opportunity to make a chargeback once through my service for free.

Timeframe - around 1-2 weeks.
Only 2 persons in month.

What else should be added? What else would you like to learn? This is just a draft, so everything is open for discussion.

The New Year has arrived. Let's try to solve the issue with orders on Amazon.
We need 2 people who are willing to undergo training and place an order on amz.com.
Price ranges from 1000 to 2000, depending on what you want to get and location. Everything is discussed individually.
I will try to explain how to do it right and how to build a business model so that you have the greatest success and can achieve refunds per order each week. I ask those who understand what risk management and time management are, and how they are related, to write to me.