PLANT THESE… with Tomatoes! 🍅🌱

I companion plant as much as possible in the garden and these are my top two companion plants for tomatoes…

MARIGOLDS 🌼

Marigolds are a great pest deterrent, both within in the soil and outside of it. They help to deter none beneficial nematodes within the soil and also draw away pests such as aphids from your tomato plants.

They attract many beneficial insects into the garden too, many of them predatory such as lace wings and lady beetles which will eat pests such as aphids! 🐞👈🏻

They also add well received colour to the beds and are edible too! 😋👍🏻

BASIL 🌱

Basil and tomatoes are a classic pairing and there’s good reason for that!

Both Basil and tomato plants enjoy the same growing conditions and when combined within a dish they taste fantastic. 😋

Basils strong but amazing scent can also help to deter pests too, so a great all round companion to those tomatoes!

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Double your Basil - every time you Harvest! 🌱

(Featuring a visit from a little friend) 🐝👀😂

So, wether you buy or grow Basil plants for your windowsill or garden, don’t just pick individual leaves!

Pruning the basil plants just above the nodes (where the leaves grow from the stem) will promote the growth of two new stems in its place.

This will produce a far bushier, more productive and longer lasting plant overall. 😊👍🏻🌱

And who doesn’t want more Basil? 😋

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Sprouts are the ultimate vegetable that you can grow at home! 🌱

People have been sprouting for millennia and the basic principles haven’t changed. You can grow the most nutritious food on the planet right on your countertop, with just seeds, fresh water, and a jar.

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I Haven't Been Sick Since Having FIRE CIDER!

Here's how to make it yourself 💪🔥 Fire cider is believed to be good for you due to its immune support, anti-inflammatory properties, and digestive benefits. Ingredients like pungent garlic, ginger, and vinegar may contribute to its reported health benefits, including potential cold and flu prevention.

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Learning how to grow sweet potatoes is surprisingly easy – just a few plants provide a plentiful harvest.🌿

Sweet potatoes aren’t grown from seed–they are started from slips – rooted sweet potato shoots grown from a mature sweet potato.

Sweet potatoes need a long, warm growing season, are heat-tolerant and drought-resistant, and have very few pests or diseases.

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5 things to Prune in February! 🌹🌳🍎🍐🌺

The aim of pruning in winter is mainly to encourage vigour and productivity in fruit trees and flowering plants, and to ensure that shrubs such as buddleja don’t outgrow their space or take over.

So here are 5 things you may have in your garden that you should prune back in February, if you already haven’t…

Fruit trees and bushes 🌳🍎

To promote healthy fruit production, I remove all decaying and overlapping branches and aim to create a wine glass shape with plenty of airflow in-between. But Leave stone fruit like plums until summer.

Wisteria 🌿

Wisteria should ideally be pruned twice a year to promote proper flowering, in summer and winter, at this time of the year I prune back sideshoots to around 2-3 buds.

Climbing or bush roses 🌹

I’m training these up an arch, so I leave the thick vigorous stems and cut back the thin weak ones that are out of place, as well as any dead or decaying stems. Rambling roses should be left until late summer.

Clematis 🌺

Group 3 clematis flower in late summer, so I give them a hard prune in February to around 20-30cm above the ground and remove old growth to encourage strong flowering shoots.

Buddleja or butterfly bush 🦋

Even though they often pop up unexpectedly, buddleja are a popular shrub. They are fast growing and can easily take over a space, so I prune mine back hard to ensure they don’t take over and to promote a display of flowers.

So do have any of these in your garden? 😊🌱

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Tomato Ripening Tip! 🍅🤏🏻

Once the colour change in a ripening fruit becomes viable, it is producing ethylene which is the ripening agent.

It also means that the fruit has passed the breaker stage, meaning the fruit no longer relies on receiving nutrients or sugars from the plant as it now contains all that it requires to fully ripen on its own.

This is the stage in which the thin layer of cells that forms in the Abscission Zone between the plant and fruit has developed considerably to all but cut off from the plant, hence the term ‘breaker stage’.

However, this is a gradual and complex process that begins at the flowering stage and isn’t fully complete until the fruit has finished ripening and falls from the plant, so a sudden excess of water can still pass through into the plant if overwatered.

Removing the fruit at the breaker stage removes this risk, as well as other common issues such as blossom end rot or pests spoiling the fruit.

There is no real lose in flavour or nutritional benefit from removing the fruit to finish ripening off the plant, so you are essentially hedging your bets, but you can’t lose! 🙌🏻🍅

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