not skincare related, an interesting article however that once more proves why Germans love a good beer:
http://phys.org/news/2016-10-scientists-outline-biochemistry-xanthohumolan-avenue.html?utm_content=buffera4671&utm_medium=social&utm_source=facebook.com&utm_campaign=buffer

classes of occlusve ingredients

Occlusive ingredients build a protective film over skin and reduce TEWL by holding moisture (even though they are don't bind moisture). The king of occlusives are paraffins and hydrocarbon which are a no-go in "natural cosmetics", correct?
Well, there are indeed "natural", "plant based" , "sustainable" and "ecocert" certified hydrocarbons available. Have a look at the photo for some examples of occlusive ingredients

just stumbled upon this link that compacts almost all requirements for labelling in the EU:
https://www.cosmeticseurope.eu/using-cosmetics-colipa-the-european-cosmetic-cosmetics-association/labelling-.html

we have had some questions whether our pentylene glycol and the propylene glycol of Zemea are the same. They belong to the same class of ingredients but are not exactly the same ingredients.

time to announce this weeks special deal: lexfeel natural, the natural silicone oil substitute: https://shop.skinchakra.eu/en/Cosmetic-Lab/Cosmetic-ingredients-A-Z/LexFeel-Natural.html

a compact introductory to adaptogenic herbs:
http://www.goorganiccanada.com/every-single-adaptogenic-herb-out-there-try-all-13/

we've tested a few gums for you in a simple scrub formulation just to show you that a higher viscosity and a higher gum concentration doesn't necessarily lead to a more stable scrub. Read the post here:
http://skinchakra.eu/blog/archives/467-How-to-improve-the-stability-of-your-gel-scrubs.html#extended

this is a very nice article, quite extraordinary for daily mail niveau which is worth reading and sharing
www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-3800918/How-big-beauty-brands-fool-forking-Copycat-packaging-Beguiling-ingredients-Outlandish-boasts-lashings-cod-science.html

sharing an amazing info about lavender oil and hydrosol from the most knowledgeable expert alive:
https://www.facebook.com/RobertTisserandEssentialTraining/photos/a.230965720267970.62331.166263113404898/1279911365373395/?type=3&theater

Today's cosmeceutical chat is about Proviatmin D3
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLsh8HcgwCV/?taken-by=skinchakra

some more links about the role of vit D in skincare:
http://link.springer.com/chapter/10.1007/978-1-4939-0437-2_1

http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/ics.12036/full

Vit D and its role in psychiatric health:
http://www.mdedge.com/currentpsychiatry/article/66349/depression/vitamin-d-deficiency-and-psychiatric-illness

no special this for this weekend since we're on a short break. Sending all of you warm, oriental greetings instead

we've had some questions about application of dermofeel PA3 as a preservative booster and chelating agent to products when a great part of the formulation (50-80% hydrosol) is already preserved

some of you have asked about stearic acid and whether it could be used in "natural cosmetics"

good news for all of you waiting for organic jojoba oil, perilla seed oil, poppy seed oil and hemp seed oil. They would be available from next week

there has been a worrying article about lavender oil and its susceptibility to oxidation. Robert Tisserand, the most knowledgeable essential oils expert alive has popped up an old post he has written a while back to answer these arguments in a very comrehensive method:
http://roberttisserand.com/2011/08/lavender-oil-skin-savior-or-skin-irritant/

20% weekend discount for our freshly arrived organic poppy seed oil: https://shop.skinchakra.eu/en/Cosmetic-Lab/Plant-oils-butters-and-waxes/Poppy-seed-oil-organic-cold-pressed.html

most of you wanted to know which containers we use for our stability testings. We're now happy to announce that we've added these containers to our shop. You don't need (and can not afford) to run all tests in the very final packaging and need some affordable and easy to handle containers before reaching the very last step:
https://shop.skinchakra.eu/en/Accessory-and-packaging/Instruments-and-accessory/Sample-tins-with-snap-on-lid.html

https://www.instagram.com/p/BMQygEsAv3r/?taken-by=skinchakra

Today's Instagram feed is about antioxidant capacity of some herbs and spices. Reference and more about oxidation:
http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1541-4337.2011.00156.x/full

which gloves do you usually use in the lab? Check the properties of vinyl. latex and nitrile gloves