Another work day today for my new battery. Presently the house is running on my first prototype battery which is NOT as neat as this. First of all the bus bars that come with LiFePO4 batteries are typically 2mm thick and are not suitable for the full amp capacity of the battery. So I bought 3/4 x 1/4 x 6’ lengths of 110 copper alloy. You need a BMS and the BMS needs to have a wire attached to each cell of a battery to keep a watchful eye on them. In my first prototype, I used crimp on ring lugs and didn’t route the wires neatly at all... I just wanted to see the thing work. In this battery I have made massive bus bars and even soldered the BMS sense wires to the middle of each bus bar. No need to stack ring lugs on the battery posts.
So I drilled them on my milling machine to get a really good consistent spacing on the holes. Never mind the few that are crooked... the vice came loose on the table. :-) I also drilled a shallow dimple in the middle of each bus bar to give a place for soldering the BMS sense wires on.
I placed a terminal strip up top in the BMS space on top of my battery. Each of the 17 sense wires comes to that terminal strip. This should make it really easy in the future to swap out a BMS or add an active balancer. I also ran an extra terminal on each end for 0v and 48v so I can attach 48v things without having do disconnect the BMS.
Note the shelf that the BMS will sit on has all thread down both sides that clamp the batteries in place. Also note that I build the battery from the bottom up and attached each bus bar as I went. This is to allow each battery to jockey around as I tighten the bus bars. You see they aren’t exactly true...they have a little warp in them (they are extruded). So if I had stacked all 16 batteries and then tried to tighten the bus bars, they might not have pulled the bottom batteries enough to make excellent contact on the terminals. So after all the bus bars were snug, I then used a nut on the shelf and all thread to clamp the batteries into the case so they won’t slide around. I have a little headspace at the top of the box above that shelf for hte BMS and contactor. Also there is a front cover and a top cover so I can keep it safely covered up.
Tomorrow I’ll hook up one of the two BMS units I have for testing and see it it is better than the chargery that I’m using on the prototype. Eventually, I’ll rework the prototype with bus bars like this one and I’ll have three identical units... 45kwh of LFP batteries.
So I drilled them on my milling machine to get a really good consistent spacing on the holes. Never mind the few that are crooked... the vice came loose on the table. :-) I also drilled a shallow dimple in the middle of each bus bar to give a place for soldering the BMS sense wires on.
I placed a terminal strip up top in the BMS space on top of my battery. Each of the 17 sense wires comes to that terminal strip. This should make it really easy in the future to swap out a BMS or add an active balancer. I also ran an extra terminal on each end for 0v and 48v so I can attach 48v things without having do disconnect the BMS.
Note the shelf that the BMS will sit on has all thread down both sides that clamp the batteries in place. Also note that I build the battery from the bottom up and attached each bus bar as I went. This is to allow each battery to jockey around as I tighten the bus bars. You see they aren’t exactly true...they have a little warp in them (they are extruded). So if I had stacked all 16 batteries and then tried to tighten the bus bars, they might not have pulled the bottom batteries enough to make excellent contact on the terminals. So after all the bus bars were snug, I then used a nut on the shelf and all thread to clamp the batteries into the case so they won’t slide around. I have a little headspace at the top of the box above that shelf for hte BMS and contactor. Also there is a front cover and a top cover so I can keep it safely covered up.
Tomorrow I’ll hook up one of the two BMS units I have for testing and see it it is better than the chargery that I’m using on the prototype. Eventually, I’ll rework the prototype with bus bars like this one and I’ll have three identical units... 45kwh of LFP batteries.
Any of you building batteries for your house, cabin or camper may find this useful.
Forwarded from Sissy & Bubba's Farmstead
So the tarps roll up on the sides they protect from sun and rain. The green material was just wired on to protect from the wind during the snowpocalypse. We were using this one as a dog kennel
In times of uncertainty, and without modern infrastructure to aide us, its imperative to learn how to take care of your hide. Modern shampoos and body washes contain heavy metals and sulfides, becoming more of a detriment in the long run. With this information here, you can learn how to create and utilize your own safe and effective means of maintaining good hygiene. A simple recipe I found online will do just that.
From https://www.survival-manual.com/homemade-soap.php
You will only need five ingredients to make basic soap.
1) Wood ash
2) Water
3) Animal fats
4) Plant oils
5) Salt
From https://www.survival-manual.com/homemade-soap.php
You will only need five ingredients to make basic soap.
1) Wood ash
2) Water
3) Animal fats
4) Plant oils
5) Salt
Survival-Manual
Survival Manual - Learn How To Make Your Own Soap
Living of the land is a dirty business. I am sure to fell human again you will periodically want to wash. To do this properly you will need soap. Soap is a
As for shampoo, which I believe is a necessary aide to preventing scalp dermatitis and lice; another recipie follows.
How to Make Natural Homemade Shampoo
I’ve made natural alternatives to most of our household and toiletry products, but homemade shampoo was by far the toughest.
I tried the “no-poo” method, which has great results for some, but did not work on me at all (and I have some terrible Christmas pictures to prove it!). If you have coarse hair that isn’t naturally oily, this method may be great for you! I have baby-fine hair and it didn’t work for me.
I also missed the foaming aspect of shampoo (I know… the “foam” in regular shampoo is made by chemicals and detergents…)
I tried plain liquid castile soap, which left a tangled mess, and I tried a bunch of homemade recipes that didn’t work well at all.
Finally, at the inspiration of a natural coconut milk (scented) shampoo that I love, I’ve finally found a recipe that I’m happy with and that doesn’t leave my hair tangled, oily or both.
It works on kids hair too (that’s a picture of my daughter’s newly washed hair) though it isn’t tear free, so watch the eyes!
Natural Shampoo Recipe
It’s such an easy recipe that I can’t believe it took me this long to think of it…
Secret ingredient: Coconut Milk!
What You’ll Need for Homemade Shampoo
Coconut milk (UPDATE: a couple of readers mentioned that the canned stuff did not work well for them, but that homemade coconut milk worked great… Depending on your hair type, homemade may be better for you)
Liquid castile Soap (like Dr. Bronners)
Essential Oils of choice (I’ve used peppermint, lavender, rosemary and orange or combinations of those.
Homemade Shampoo Recipe
This homemade natural shampoo smells great, works well, and lathers!
Ingredients
¼ cup coconut milk (homemade or canned)
¼ cup castile soap
20 drops essential oils (such as peppermint, lavender, rosemary, or orange)
For dry hair:
½ tsp olive oil (or almond oil, optional)
Instructions
Combine all the ingredients in an old shampoo bottle or jar. Pump soap dispensers and even foaming dispensers work well for this. If you use a foaming dispenser, add ¼ cup of distilled water.
Shake well to mix.
Keep in the shower for up to a month.
Shake before each use and use about a teaspoon every time you shampoo.
Notes
If you use a foaming dispenser, it also makes a great shaving cream.
Some people find that a 50:50 mixture of apple cider vinegar and water used as a rinse helps get hair cleaner and increases shine.
from https://wellnessmama.com/3701/homemade-shampoo/
How to Make Natural Homemade Shampoo
I’ve made natural alternatives to most of our household and toiletry products, but homemade shampoo was by far the toughest.
I tried the “no-poo” method, which has great results for some, but did not work on me at all (and I have some terrible Christmas pictures to prove it!). If you have coarse hair that isn’t naturally oily, this method may be great for you! I have baby-fine hair and it didn’t work for me.
I also missed the foaming aspect of shampoo (I know… the “foam” in regular shampoo is made by chemicals and detergents…)
I tried plain liquid castile soap, which left a tangled mess, and I tried a bunch of homemade recipes that didn’t work well at all.
Finally, at the inspiration of a natural coconut milk (scented) shampoo that I love, I’ve finally found a recipe that I’m happy with and that doesn’t leave my hair tangled, oily or both.
It works on kids hair too (that’s a picture of my daughter’s newly washed hair) though it isn’t tear free, so watch the eyes!
Natural Shampoo Recipe
It’s such an easy recipe that I can’t believe it took me this long to think of it…
Secret ingredient: Coconut Milk!
What You’ll Need for Homemade Shampoo
Coconut milk (UPDATE: a couple of readers mentioned that the canned stuff did not work well for them, but that homemade coconut milk worked great… Depending on your hair type, homemade may be better for you)
Liquid castile Soap (like Dr. Bronners)
Essential Oils of choice (I’ve used peppermint, lavender, rosemary and orange or combinations of those.
Homemade Shampoo Recipe
This homemade natural shampoo smells great, works well, and lathers!
Ingredients
¼ cup coconut milk (homemade or canned)
¼ cup castile soap
20 drops essential oils (such as peppermint, lavender, rosemary, or orange)
For dry hair:
½ tsp olive oil (or almond oil, optional)
Instructions
Combine all the ingredients in an old shampoo bottle or jar. Pump soap dispensers and even foaming dispensers work well for this. If you use a foaming dispenser, add ¼ cup of distilled water.
Shake well to mix.
Keep in the shower for up to a month.
Shake before each use and use about a teaspoon every time you shampoo.
Notes
If you use a foaming dispenser, it also makes a great shaving cream.
Some people find that a 50:50 mixture of apple cider vinegar and water used as a rinse helps get hair cleaner and increases shine.
from https://wellnessmama.com/3701/homemade-shampoo/
Wellness Mama®
How to Make Natural Homemade Shampoo
This homemade shampoo recipe uses only four ingredients to naturally clean hair. Works for both oily or dry hair types!
An update on learnings this week about Battery Management Systems for lithium batteries. This week I learned there is a BMS made by JBD in china that is rebranded and reworked so freaking many times that it’s just normalized. If you find a BMS that isn’t Daly or Chargery, it’s going to be JBD. I find that the voltmeters on these (A/D converters) are remarkably stable and accurate.
Many times these BMS circuit boards have space for MOSFETS and in that case they can individually control charging and discharging. Overkill Solar uses this type of JDB BMS with the MOSFETS on board. I have blown up a few mosfet contactors and will prefer a real mechanical relay going forward. The issue is that MOSFETS fail shorted and so just when you need your BMS to protect your battery, you’ll find that it cannot disconnect the load.
So a JBD variant I’m using is QUCC. It has a small’ish circuit board and uses an external mechanical relay. Yes, it’s from China and this relay is a knock off (not waterproof) of a gigavac GV241FAX / GV241CAX ( water proof). In either case these relays use two coils, one to pull the contact in and the other low power coil to hold it. They use 2w to hold the contactor in which is on par with the power draw of mosfet type circuits.
So to get into the JBD type BMS, you’ll typically use a bluetooth module that often comes with the unit. Be aware that this bluetooth is a glorified serial port but it is NOT compatible with Windows as a serial port. IT is compatible with tablets and iOS devices as a serial port. It is Bluetooth Low Energy and damned it I’d don’t know why there isn’t a driver for it for win10. The iOS app is free, but only for viewing. If you want to edit things you have to buy the $7 upgraded version. The Android version is XiaoxiangBMS with an elephant icon. The android version allows you to change many more parameters than the iOS version of the same software. For example you can change the bluetooth name. In my case I changed from their cryptic name to “battery 1”.
Additionally, if you disconnect the bluetooth module, you’ll find the connector has ground, 10v, RXD and TXD. 10v should be enough to run a rs232 converter. RXD and TXD are TTL compatible not RS232 compatible (the ones and zeros are inverted). You can get an RS232 converter for a few $$ on amazon.
So one caveat of this JBD / QUCC / overkill bms is that they have been designed to use in scooters and so if they don’t see occasional spikes in current (amps) they will go to sleep after 18 hours (65000 seconds). I’m experimenting tonight to see if setting to 65535 seconds will completely disable the sleep function. Fingers crossed because I really like this little BMS.
So if this works out, I’ll end up installing a small WIFI ESP32 module for $1/each or perhaps a serial to Ethernet converter. This will allow some software running on a raspberry PI to mange and monitor the batteries. Eventually the Raspi will keep tabs of if an individual battery has disconnected from the group, or keep tabs on inverter usage to do some load shedding if my HVAC compressor needs to start. I also hope to integrate the electric car chargers into this scheme too so I can charge the cars when there’s excess power from sun and gradually throttle them back as the clouds come and go.
Hey on a side note, check out YouTube “off grid garage”. He’s often a little long winded but gosh the info you can glean from his videos. Just put out one this week comparing top and bottom balancing LFP batteries. Really good info.
And there’s a young family on YouTube “Wild wonderful offgrid”. In their early episodes they installed a solar system to a small shed to be used as a power house as they moved forward building their real house. Fantastic idea. They have LOTS of details on their system and the inverters.
Many times these BMS circuit boards have space for MOSFETS and in that case they can individually control charging and discharging. Overkill Solar uses this type of JDB BMS with the MOSFETS on board. I have blown up a few mosfet contactors and will prefer a real mechanical relay going forward. The issue is that MOSFETS fail shorted and so just when you need your BMS to protect your battery, you’ll find that it cannot disconnect the load.
So a JBD variant I’m using is QUCC. It has a small’ish circuit board and uses an external mechanical relay. Yes, it’s from China and this relay is a knock off (not waterproof) of a gigavac GV241FAX / GV241CAX ( water proof). In either case these relays use two coils, one to pull the contact in and the other low power coil to hold it. They use 2w to hold the contactor in which is on par with the power draw of mosfet type circuits.
So to get into the JBD type BMS, you’ll typically use a bluetooth module that often comes with the unit. Be aware that this bluetooth is a glorified serial port but it is NOT compatible with Windows as a serial port. IT is compatible with tablets and iOS devices as a serial port. It is Bluetooth Low Energy and damned it I’d don’t know why there isn’t a driver for it for win10. The iOS app is free, but only for viewing. If you want to edit things you have to buy the $7 upgraded version. The Android version is XiaoxiangBMS with an elephant icon. The android version allows you to change many more parameters than the iOS version of the same software. For example you can change the bluetooth name. In my case I changed from their cryptic name to “battery 1”.
Additionally, if you disconnect the bluetooth module, you’ll find the connector has ground, 10v, RXD and TXD. 10v should be enough to run a rs232 converter. RXD and TXD are TTL compatible not RS232 compatible (the ones and zeros are inverted). You can get an RS232 converter for a few $$ on amazon.
So one caveat of this JBD / QUCC / overkill bms is that they have been designed to use in scooters and so if they don’t see occasional spikes in current (amps) they will go to sleep after 18 hours (65000 seconds). I’m experimenting tonight to see if setting to 65535 seconds will completely disable the sleep function. Fingers crossed because I really like this little BMS.
So if this works out, I’ll end up installing a small WIFI ESP32 module for $1/each or perhaps a serial to Ethernet converter. This will allow some software running on a raspberry PI to mange and monitor the batteries. Eventually the Raspi will keep tabs of if an individual battery has disconnected from the group, or keep tabs on inverter usage to do some load shedding if my HVAC compressor needs to start. I also hope to integrate the electric car chargers into this scheme too so I can charge the cars when there’s excess power from sun and gradually throttle them back as the clouds come and go.
Hey on a side note, check out YouTube “off grid garage”. He’s often a little long winded but gosh the info you can glean from his videos. Just put out one this week comparing top and bottom balancing LFP batteries. Really good info.
And there’s a young family on YouTube “Wild wonderful offgrid”. In their early episodes they installed a solar system to a small shed to be used as a power house as they moved forward building their real house. Fantastic idea. They have LOTS of details on their system and the inverters.
👍1
Forwarded from Campfire Intel🏕
Seeing all these cucks drinking beer and overeating, thinking they were being patriotic over the weekend while their country is essentially a rotting corpse being eaten by maggots was a little disheartening.
If you want to truly be a "free patriot", here's what you should do:
- stop masturbating. Jews give this porn away for free because it steals your life and energy. Cut that shit out.
- instead of "living for the weekend" i.e. working your shitty job only to get shitfaced every Friday and Saturday, find productive and useful hobbies like our forefathers did. They worked on their cars, did wood working, messed around with electrical shit etc. There was no vidya or night clubs.
- financial freedom, abandoning the consumer cuck debt cycle. Don't buy expensive brand new vehicles that give you $1000 payments. Learn to work on cars and find a reliable model to keep running. Don't "keep up with the Joneses" by buying new shit on credit constantly or an expensive tract home because in reality the Joneses are broke ass race traitors with tranny kids.
- strengthen or restore your personal relationship with God. The world is pushing you to be godless with no identity. This is so the kike powers can enslave you and take away what makes you strong so that you are a miserable soulless consumer cuck like them. Don't go with the flow, read the Bible and look around at churches in your area.
- physical fitness - don't demoralize yourself by immediately setting a goal to be navy seal ripped within a month. If you're out of shape, start out by simply cutting out the majority of bad foods and exercising 3x a week 30 minutes a day. Fat, sad people consume and don't fight back. This is what the banks would prefer.
Take these steps and you'll be more "free" than the flag waving potbelly cuck who drove his $100k debt purchased boat to the lake only to sit there and drink bud lite while his wife gets pounded by niggers.
If you want to truly be a "free patriot", here's what you should do:
- stop masturbating. Jews give this porn away for free because it steals your life and energy. Cut that shit out.
- instead of "living for the weekend" i.e. working your shitty job only to get shitfaced every Friday and Saturday, find productive and useful hobbies like our forefathers did. They worked on their cars, did wood working, messed around with electrical shit etc. There was no vidya or night clubs.
- financial freedom, abandoning the consumer cuck debt cycle. Don't buy expensive brand new vehicles that give you $1000 payments. Learn to work on cars and find a reliable model to keep running. Don't "keep up with the Joneses" by buying new shit on credit constantly or an expensive tract home because in reality the Joneses are broke ass race traitors with tranny kids.
- strengthen or restore your personal relationship with God. The world is pushing you to be godless with no identity. This is so the kike powers can enslave you and take away what makes you strong so that you are a miserable soulless consumer cuck like them. Don't go with the flow, read the Bible and look around at churches in your area.
- physical fitness - don't demoralize yourself by immediately setting a goal to be navy seal ripped within a month. If you're out of shape, start out by simply cutting out the majority of bad foods and exercising 3x a week 30 minutes a day. Fat, sad people consume and don't fight back. This is what the banks would prefer.
Take these steps and you'll be more "free" than the flag waving potbelly cuck who drove his $100k debt purchased boat to the lake only to sit there and drink bud lite while his wife gets pounded by niggers.
👍3
Speaking of cucks sitting around drinking beer… I was talking to one of my neighbors last night and the subject of inflation and the economy came up. I told him inflation was going to keep going up and the only hedge Against inflation is to just buy the things you want now because they’ll cost more later or they won’t be available. As an example I told my neighbor he should buy solar panels for his house and maybe a spare water pump. He looked right at me and said I already know someone with Solar panels. I said yes but I don’t need anything from you. He said but I’ve got a lot of guns and ammunition. Yeah I do too. Funconversation.
The problem with neighbors can really become onerous in the future. Something you need to think about now. I watch my neighbors go to the lake on the pontoon boat and drink beer all Saturday while I am tending to chickens rabbits, stocking up on supplies, finishing the basement in the house. It truly is a real life incarnation of the parable of the ant and the grasshopper.
The problem with neighbors can really become onerous in the future. Something you need to think about now. I watch my neighbors go to the lake on the pontoon boat and drink beer all Saturday while I am tending to chickens rabbits, stocking up on supplies, finishing the basement in the house. It truly is a real life incarnation of the parable of the ant and the grasshopper.
💯1
More notes about what not to do with BMS.... The Chargery units are decent BMS. At least they stay on. We had a lot over power failures today when the inverters kept shutting down.
Due to having two LiFePO4 batteries with two different sets of bus bars, one of them was providing more current than the other... like 78amps vs 160 amps under a nearly full load. One set has the stock bus bars that the Chinese vendor provided... they are 1.5mm 1/16” thick. The other pack has 6.25mm 1/4” thick copper bus bars that I made.
1) when my 4.5 ton heat pump started and the solar charger wasn’t “helping”, the battery that was already providing more amps spiked over 300amps and the BMS shut it down. This caused 100% of the load to go to the other battery and it too shut down. Since the Chargery won’t allow me to set a current higher than 300amps, I turned off the “shut off on over current” option.
2)After many hours of running, the Sunny Island inverters were using their own internal calculations to estimate battery State of Charge. There were two issues with this... I forgot to change the amp hour capacity from 280ah to 540ah, and secondly since I don’t use an external current shunt, the inverters’ guesstimate of remaining capacity did not know about the solar charger keeping the batteries up... so the inverters thought the batteries were down to 15% and they were actually at 94%. The solution for this is to use an external current sense so the inverters can know when the batteries are charging from another source.
3)Remember when I said I forgot to change the amp hours of the battery in the inverter programming? Well, when you do that, it resets all the default voltages for bulk absorption and float and equalize. So I didn’t realize this and when I went back on grid for the night, the inverters were cranking out 12.5kw .... that’s 260amps... into my batteries. The issue wasn’t the current. The issue was that the inverters charged my battery to 57v because that’s the default target for a lead acid battery in the inverter settings. One of my 16 cells in one of the batteries got over 3.7v and the BMS did exactly what it was supposed to do.... it shut off for cell voltage too high. This caused all of the current to dump over to the remaining battery and it tripped for high charge amps even though I programmed the Chargery BMS to ignore high amps. Arrrrgghhh....
4)The good news today is that once the charging stopped the bms could get a “quiet” reading from them and all of the cells stayed within 25mV of each other. During charging the Chargery unit doesn’t read very stable... you see the unit has a ground that is elevated above 0V on the battery because of the current shunt it uses and when there’s a lot of current flowing it screws up the ground reference for voltage measurements.
5)There is a “output only” serial port on the chargery that just spews data once a second. Every cell voltage, SoC, temperatures, etc... I plan to connect these serial ports via a cheap RS232 to Ethernet adapter and have my raspberry pi collecting this data all the time. Then I can do adaptive load management in the future.
6)Ya’ll should strongly consider getting inverter drive HVAC compressors when/if it’s time for a heat pump upgrade. The surges are tough on the inverters. I’m considering moving the HVAC compressor off the critical loads panel. Wife ain’t gunna like that.
7)When you design a BMS, strongly consider breaking the POSITIVE lead going out. Many of them want to put the contactor and shunt on the ground side. That’s fine until you have multiple packs and one disconnects and you instantly have a floating ground on that disconnected pack. That might work for Ethernet which is designed to have common mode rejection of >48v, but for RS232 it could blow up your serial port. This is why I’m planning to use RS232 to Ethernet adapters. And yes, my BMS contactors are on the hot side not the ground. The shunts must be on the ground side though.
Due to having two LiFePO4 batteries with two different sets of bus bars, one of them was providing more current than the other... like 78amps vs 160 amps under a nearly full load. One set has the stock bus bars that the Chinese vendor provided... they are 1.5mm 1/16” thick. The other pack has 6.25mm 1/4” thick copper bus bars that I made.
1) when my 4.5 ton heat pump started and the solar charger wasn’t “helping”, the battery that was already providing more amps spiked over 300amps and the BMS shut it down. This caused 100% of the load to go to the other battery and it too shut down. Since the Chargery won’t allow me to set a current higher than 300amps, I turned off the “shut off on over current” option.
2)After many hours of running, the Sunny Island inverters were using their own internal calculations to estimate battery State of Charge. There were two issues with this... I forgot to change the amp hour capacity from 280ah to 540ah, and secondly since I don’t use an external current shunt, the inverters’ guesstimate of remaining capacity did not know about the solar charger keeping the batteries up... so the inverters thought the batteries were down to 15% and they were actually at 94%. The solution for this is to use an external current sense so the inverters can know when the batteries are charging from another source.
3)Remember when I said I forgot to change the amp hours of the battery in the inverter programming? Well, when you do that, it resets all the default voltages for bulk absorption and float and equalize. So I didn’t realize this and when I went back on grid for the night, the inverters were cranking out 12.5kw .... that’s 260amps... into my batteries. The issue wasn’t the current. The issue was that the inverters charged my battery to 57v because that’s the default target for a lead acid battery in the inverter settings. One of my 16 cells in one of the batteries got over 3.7v and the BMS did exactly what it was supposed to do.... it shut off for cell voltage too high. This caused all of the current to dump over to the remaining battery and it tripped for high charge amps even though I programmed the Chargery BMS to ignore high amps. Arrrrgghhh....
4)The good news today is that once the charging stopped the bms could get a “quiet” reading from them and all of the cells stayed within 25mV of each other. During charging the Chargery unit doesn’t read very stable... you see the unit has a ground that is elevated above 0V on the battery because of the current shunt it uses and when there’s a lot of current flowing it screws up the ground reference for voltage measurements.
5)There is a “output only” serial port on the chargery that just spews data once a second. Every cell voltage, SoC, temperatures, etc... I plan to connect these serial ports via a cheap RS232 to Ethernet adapter and have my raspberry pi collecting this data all the time. Then I can do adaptive load management in the future.
6)Ya’ll should strongly consider getting inverter drive HVAC compressors when/if it’s time for a heat pump upgrade. The surges are tough on the inverters. I’m considering moving the HVAC compressor off the critical loads panel. Wife ain’t gunna like that.
7)When you design a BMS, strongly consider breaking the POSITIVE lead going out. Many of them want to put the contactor and shunt on the ground side. That’s fine until you have multiple packs and one disconnects and you instantly have a floating ground on that disconnected pack. That might work for Ethernet which is designed to have common mode rejection of >48v, but for RS232 it could blow up your serial port. This is why I’m planning to use RS232 to Ethernet adapters. And yes, my BMS contactors are on the hot side not the ground. The shunts must be on the ground side though.
8)I gave lots of thought to the pros and cons of having three separate BMS units or three stacks of paralleled cells with one BMS. I decided to go with 3 separate batteries and 3 BMSs so it would be easier to troubleshoot a bad cell. But now I’m facing BMS’s shutting off for over current when one of them shits the bit and dumps current to the others. Seems to not matter if I lose one, the others drop out in sequence anyway. Since I’m using these really nice gigavac contactors that are rated for peak 1000amps and 400 continuous, I starting to think I’d be better off with just one huge pack. Another issue may become that if one pack disconnects and the others end up at a significantly different voltage then reconnecting the errant pack might result in really high current between batteries. Seems safer to just keep them all locked in parallel.
That is all.... posting this so you all can learn from my troubles.
That is all.... posting this so you all can learn from my troubles.
👍1
I am far from an experienced canner but I have a few years under my belt... I just about had a major problem... I have an old school canning pot with a weighted piece well I started my canning pot and had it all seal up and did nothing different I have not done atleast 500 times. ... This time was different and had I not been watching it it would have blown up.... The vent under the weight got clogged so pressure was building with no where to go.... I bring this up because I would have been a victim today had I not acted fast and thought faster... So all of those out canning make sure your required vents are clear before you add pressure
-Rhino
-Rhino
Working today on fixing leaks in my shop air lines. It’s the cheapest and best way to protect the investment you made in your air compressor. Get you a can of thread sealing compound (pipe dope) and apply liberally to any threads in your system, wait 30 minutes, then repressurize. I also may replace some PVC fittings that are leaking, but in the mean time I’ve applied more glue around where they couple so we’ll see if that holds.
Forwarded from Off The Grid (Werner Best)
FIRST AID TO THE INJURED.pdf
2.4 MB
What causes injuries and how they are they divided by cause?
Anything that can damage the body can cause an injury: blunt or sharp objects, impact at high speed, falls, animal or insect bites, fire or extreme heat, and exposure to chemicals and toxins. According to the cause the injury can be divided into:
-Mechanical injury: injury to any portion of the body from a blow, crush, cut, or penetrating force (bullet)
– Thermal injury: injury caused by exposure to excess heat and excess cold sufficient to cause damage to the skin, and possibly deeper tissue
- Electrical injury: injuries caused by exposure to natural lightning or electricity in the home or workplace
- Injury produced by ionizing radiation
Anything that can damage the body can cause an injury: blunt or sharp objects, impact at high speed, falls, animal or insect bites, fire or extreme heat, and exposure to chemicals and toxins. According to the cause the injury can be divided into:
-Mechanical injury: injury to any portion of the body from a blow, crush, cut, or penetrating force (bullet)
– Thermal injury: injury caused by exposure to excess heat and excess cold sufficient to cause damage to the skin, and possibly deeper tissue
- Electrical injury: injuries caused by exposure to natural lightning or electricity in the home or workplace
- Injury produced by ionizing radiation