I learned two things today... the Daly 16s 250 Smart BMS can be powered up by putting a push button switch between pins 1 and 3 on the "light board" plug. You can ID pins 1,2,3 by measuing voltage 1=ground, 2=3.3v,3=batery voltage (48v). Touch the 48v pin to the ground pin. You see the BMS can be booted initially by touching P- to the negative terminal on your battery, but if it goes to sleep with a full tummy (lol...), you can't wake it back up. So the PROPER way is to use the switch on that light port.
The connector is an 8 pin female JST PH 2.0mm pin spacing. YOu can find them on amazon and ebay with 8" wires already attached.
Now my bad news... I have a chargery BMS on one of the batteries that is running my house and decided to break the battery in 1/2 by removing a buss bar in the middle of the battery. That way if my wrench touched the main positive and main negative there would be no sparks. All went well until I actually did accidentally touch the positive to the negative with my wrench while the BMS was still connected to the 16 sensing wires. Apparently this lets the magic smoke out of the balancing mosfets. So if you need to work on a big battery:1) power down the BMS and disconnect the balance wires, 2)wrap all wrenches in electric tape, 3)break the battery in 1/2 by removing a bussbar. You see, I only did ONE of those three things. And now I get to wait for another BMS from chyyyyynaaahhhh....
The connector is an 8 pin female JST PH 2.0mm pin spacing. YOu can find them on amazon and ebay with 8" wires already attached.
Now my bad news... I have a chargery BMS on one of the batteries that is running my house and decided to break the battery in 1/2 by removing a buss bar in the middle of the battery. That way if my wrench touched the main positive and main negative there would be no sparks. All went well until I actually did accidentally touch the positive to the negative with my wrench while the BMS was still connected to the 16 sensing wires. Apparently this lets the magic smoke out of the balancing mosfets. So if you need to work on a big battery:1) power down the BMS and disconnect the balance wires, 2)wrap all wrenches in electric tape, 3)break the battery in 1/2 by removing a bussbar. You see, I only did ONE of those three things. And now I get to wait for another BMS from chyyyyynaaahhhh....
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Neat little harvesting tool. Personally, I've always been a fan of the twist and pull method. Not sure this quite reaches 'revolutionary' status. Let me know what you think in the comments
You may recognize this man from the show Alone, where people are challenged to spend 30 days in the bush. Television always has some sort of hidden fakery, but a cool show nonetheless. I much prefer the mans youtube channel, he has tons of creative and informative content, well worth supporting
https://youtu.be/oxyXg2Hq9y0
https://youtu.be/oxyXg2Hq9y0
YouTube
Homemade Primitive Survival Fishing Line Build | Catch & Cook
Greg crafts a bunch of homemade Primitive bushcraft fishing line out of dogbane plant and it is STRONG! He casts it out into a pair of Rocky Mountain lakes and manages to hook rainbow trout for a delicious catch and cook!
Find The Joker knives in Greg's…
Find The Joker knives in Greg's…
LFP Golf cart.pdf
276.2 KB
Lithium Battery conversion for a 48v golf cart.
Forwarded from Off The Grid (Werner Best)
Powering your house from the sun (Complete).pdf
5.5 MB
I know this isn’t exactly a gun group, but sometimes we can delve into weapons. This weekend I had two new toys to play with.
One of my toys is PSA brand trigger group for an AR. Highly recommended. Not as good as a Geissel $280 trigger which has a spring loaded trigger vs most trigger groups that the trigger connects directly to the sear. I tend to take very careful shots at longer ranges and really hate the standard trigger on most AR’s. I can feel them creep as I squeeze. The PSA trigger is https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-custom-ar-3-5-lbs-match-grade-drop-in-trigger-flat-116055.html
The other toy is a crimson trace 56mm 24x scope. First focal plane reticle, adjustments in 1/10mil. Great features, but it wouldn’t focus. At full zoom, I couldn’t quite make out 1” high numbers 100m away. I have a 50mm 24x Leupold scope and I can easily read those letters. When I back off the zoom on the crimson trace to 3x, only things about 25 yards away can be made to be in focus by messing with the parallax knob. Shouldn’t be that way. So it’s a big NO for an $800 crimson trace scope.
For the uninitiated, a 2nd focal plane vs 1st focal plane scope means the reticle stays the same size while the image zooms OR the crosshairs zoom with the image. First focal plane scopes have a reticle that zooms in sync with the image. Second focal plane scopes have a reticle that always stays the same size to your eye while the image in the scope zooms in and out. Why is this important? Because with a mil-dot scope you can measure distance to distant objects or easily establish a holdover to targets beyond your zeroed range. A mil-dot is 10cm at 100meters (3.9” at 100yards).
So if you use a 2nd focal plane scope there is ONLY one zoom power that the mil dots are calibrated. This is why I have 1” high numbers on my target backboard... I made a mark every 10cm and use those marks to figure out what zoom power my 2nd focal plane scopes calibrate at.
With first focal plane scopes, the mil-dots alway match the image size at any zoom level. The one disadvantage of the FFP scope is that when you zoom out the reticle gets so small it may be difficult to see.
Here’s an example of measuring distance with a mil dot scope. A car license plate is 12” wide. That’s 30cm. If you see a license plate on a car that is two mil dots wide, you use this formula : (30cm / 2 mil dots) x 10 = 150meters. In English units the formula is a little more difficult in your head. 12” / 2 mil dots x 27.77= 166yards. Metic is just so much easier which is why I zero all my stuff at 100meters (109 yards).
One of my toys is PSA brand trigger group for an AR. Highly recommended. Not as good as a Geissel $280 trigger which has a spring loaded trigger vs most trigger groups that the trigger connects directly to the sear. I tend to take very careful shots at longer ranges and really hate the standard trigger on most AR’s. I can feel them creep as I squeeze. The PSA trigger is https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-custom-ar-3-5-lbs-match-grade-drop-in-trigger-flat-116055.html
The other toy is a crimson trace 56mm 24x scope. First focal plane reticle, adjustments in 1/10mil. Great features, but it wouldn’t focus. At full zoom, I couldn’t quite make out 1” high numbers 100m away. I have a 50mm 24x Leupold scope and I can easily read those letters. When I back off the zoom on the crimson trace to 3x, only things about 25 yards away can be made to be in focus by messing with the parallax knob. Shouldn’t be that way. So it’s a big NO for an $800 crimson trace scope.
For the uninitiated, a 2nd focal plane vs 1st focal plane scope means the reticle stays the same size while the image zooms OR the crosshairs zoom with the image. First focal plane scopes have a reticle that zooms in sync with the image. Second focal plane scopes have a reticle that always stays the same size to your eye while the image in the scope zooms in and out. Why is this important? Because with a mil-dot scope you can measure distance to distant objects or easily establish a holdover to targets beyond your zeroed range. A mil-dot is 10cm at 100meters (3.9” at 100yards).
So if you use a 2nd focal plane scope there is ONLY one zoom power that the mil dots are calibrated. This is why I have 1” high numbers on my target backboard... I made a mark every 10cm and use those marks to figure out what zoom power my 2nd focal plane scopes calibrate at.
With first focal plane scopes, the mil-dots alway match the image size at any zoom level. The one disadvantage of the FFP scope is that when you zoom out the reticle gets so small it may be difficult to see.
Here’s an example of measuring distance with a mil dot scope. A car license plate is 12” wide. That’s 30cm. If you see a license plate on a car that is two mil dots wide, you use this formula : (30cm / 2 mil dots) x 10 = 150meters. In English units the formula is a little more difficult in your head. 12” / 2 mil dots x 27.77= 166yards. Metic is just so much easier which is why I zero all my stuff at 100meters (109 yards).
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Basic tools for mechanical work everyone should have:
-Full socket set with ratchet both SAE and metric.
Don't buy a "kit" that claims to have everything as sizes will be skipped. Get a no skip sizing socket set, preferably impact.
Find a size that fits whatever you'll be working on, if it's big stuff get a bunch of half inch. I recommend 3/8 as a good all-rounder but you should have 1/4 drive as well.
Cheap brand sockets are actually okay but you'll want to get a somewhat decent ratchet from a brand with a good reputation with the extensions to match. Flex head ratchets are handy but revolving ratchets are by far the best.
- impact gun / power ratchet
This can be air power or electric depending on whether you have air supply or not. The advantage of air power is that you don't have to mess with batteries and the tools are usually a lot cheaper and have significant power if you crank it up. The advantages of cordless battery tools are obvious, but the grade of these depends on your intended usage. Cheap stuff works, but make sure you have extra batteries on hand as the generally suck in budget models. By far the best is big red, but it's an expensive investment.
- ratcheting wrenches
I personally would just make the investment in some decent ratcheting wrenches. These of course can be used as regular wrenches as well. You don't have to go out and buy tool truck brands, but this will be an item you'll regret buying cheap or a kit that says "complete" but skips sizes. Theyre also really nice for saving time in tight spaces.
- hammers
You're not gonna wanna cheap out on this. Chinese hammers can break and cause a safety issue, not only that but they're heavy, have a lot of shock to your hand and wrist, and suck to use. You're gonna want an engineers hammer, ball peen, and dead blow. They'll be used a lot in mechanical work so get good ones.
- torque wrench
Absolutely essential for things like ensuring proper tightness on brake calipers and suspension components. Your car will be shit and unsafe to drive without this. Another item not to cheap out on as I've personally had one break bolts because it never clicked properly.
- basic multimeter
Doesn't have to be incredibly fancy, just make sure it can test both AC and DC as well as resistance and continuity reliably
- Basic shop supplies to make life easier
Pb blaster or equivalent penetrating oil, brake cleaner, electronics part cleaner, white lithium grease, and spare top off fluids such as motor oil, brake fluid, trans fluid and power steering fluid
By no means is this a full list, but simply some basic advice to get started.
-Full socket set with ratchet both SAE and metric.
Don't buy a "kit" that claims to have everything as sizes will be skipped. Get a no skip sizing socket set, preferably impact.
Find a size that fits whatever you'll be working on, if it's big stuff get a bunch of half inch. I recommend 3/8 as a good all-rounder but you should have 1/4 drive as well.
Cheap brand sockets are actually okay but you'll want to get a somewhat decent ratchet from a brand with a good reputation with the extensions to match. Flex head ratchets are handy but revolving ratchets are by far the best.
- impact gun / power ratchet
This can be air power or electric depending on whether you have air supply or not. The advantage of air power is that you don't have to mess with batteries and the tools are usually a lot cheaper and have significant power if you crank it up. The advantages of cordless battery tools are obvious, but the grade of these depends on your intended usage. Cheap stuff works, but make sure you have extra batteries on hand as the generally suck in budget models. By far the best is big red, but it's an expensive investment.
- ratcheting wrenches
I personally would just make the investment in some decent ratcheting wrenches. These of course can be used as regular wrenches as well. You don't have to go out and buy tool truck brands, but this will be an item you'll regret buying cheap or a kit that says "complete" but skips sizes. Theyre also really nice for saving time in tight spaces.
- hammers
You're not gonna wanna cheap out on this. Chinese hammers can break and cause a safety issue, not only that but they're heavy, have a lot of shock to your hand and wrist, and suck to use. You're gonna want an engineers hammer, ball peen, and dead blow. They'll be used a lot in mechanical work so get good ones.
- torque wrench
Absolutely essential for things like ensuring proper tightness on brake calipers and suspension components. Your car will be shit and unsafe to drive without this. Another item not to cheap out on as I've personally had one break bolts because it never clicked properly.
- basic multimeter
Doesn't have to be incredibly fancy, just make sure it can test both AC and DC as well as resistance and continuity reliably
- Basic shop supplies to make life easier
Pb blaster or equivalent penetrating oil, brake cleaner, electronics part cleaner, white lithium grease, and spare top off fluids such as motor oil, brake fluid, trans fluid and power steering fluid
By no means is this a full list, but simply some basic advice to get started.
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Container home. The devil is in the details. 2x3 walls inside that do NOT touch the exterior walls. You do not want thermal bridging in a metal box. https://youtu.be/tg-3dOfTeb4
YouTube
Turning two shipping containers into a home
Just starting this project and complete cost breakdown.
I got a good deal on 9mm snake shot. Or so I thought. Turns out there is a such thing as a 9mm rimfire shot gun.
Off The Grid
I got a good deal on 9mm snake shot. Or so I thought. Turns out there is a such thing as a 9mm rimfire shot gun.
Now you might as well buy the gun for it
Everyone poops, but not everyone knows how to poop (looking at you, asia & africa). Long term encampment can be a cesspool of disease and infection if you dont know how to properly dispose of your waste. Improper waste disposal can leech in to your water supply, or come in contact with your skin. For example, before plumbing, many people died from serious disease such as e. coli, hepatitis, salmonella and simple infection. You need to remember that when living completely off grid, there is no doctor to prescribe you antibiotics, so proper sanitation is the easiest way to prevent infection all together. Read the PDFs below for the best methods of simple and effective sanitation.