Forwarded from Dr. Centaurium
Water-glassed Eggs
These are homegrown, unwashed eggs stored in lime water. The lime water fills in all the pores of the egg and encases them in a shell of "glass". Water glassed eggs can last stored at room temperature like this for up to 2 years. This method of preserving raw eggs has been used since the 1800s and was common even into the 1940s and 50s. When refrigerators became a standard kitchen appliance, water glassing almost became a lost art.
You cannot use commercial eggs for this because they have all had the protective coating (bloom) washed off the shell and will quickly go bad. I recently scrambled up 18 eggs that had been stored in lime water for 7 months on an unrefrigerated cupboard shelf and they tasted perfectly fresh (although the yoke seemed a bit thinner than fresh eggs).
Anyhow, if you have an abundance of fresh, unwashed eggs, you might want to try putting some away for later. The ratio is one ounce (by weight) of lime (calcium hydroxide) to one quart of water. Calcium hydroxide is a completely natural, organic ingredient and harmless, although the powder is very fine and may irritate your lungs if you breathe it in. The lime water also quickly dried out the skin on my hands and I had to apply lotion to get them back to normal. When you do use the eggs, be sure to rinse them thoroughly before you crack them or they will taste like lime.
FYI: a gallon size container will store about 40 eggs. Lime is also known as calcium hydroxide. You can buy it in 50 pound bags in the masonry section of the hardware store, or in 1 pound bags in the canning section of the grocery store....often labeled as "pickling lime”.
These are homegrown, unwashed eggs stored in lime water. The lime water fills in all the pores of the egg and encases them in a shell of "glass". Water glassed eggs can last stored at room temperature like this for up to 2 years. This method of preserving raw eggs has been used since the 1800s and was common even into the 1940s and 50s. When refrigerators became a standard kitchen appliance, water glassing almost became a lost art.
You cannot use commercial eggs for this because they have all had the protective coating (bloom) washed off the shell and will quickly go bad. I recently scrambled up 18 eggs that had been stored in lime water for 7 months on an unrefrigerated cupboard shelf and they tasted perfectly fresh (although the yoke seemed a bit thinner than fresh eggs).
Anyhow, if you have an abundance of fresh, unwashed eggs, you might want to try putting some away for later. The ratio is one ounce (by weight) of lime (calcium hydroxide) to one quart of water. Calcium hydroxide is a completely natural, organic ingredient and harmless, although the powder is very fine and may irritate your lungs if you breathe it in. The lime water also quickly dried out the skin on my hands and I had to apply lotion to get them back to normal. When you do use the eggs, be sure to rinse them thoroughly before you crack them or they will taste like lime.
FYI: a gallon size container will store about 40 eggs. Lime is also known as calcium hydroxide. You can buy it in 50 pound bags in the masonry section of the hardware store, or in 1 pound bags in the canning section of the grocery store....often labeled as "pickling lime”.
Making Soap
Allow yourself 90 minutes to do this the first time. It's easier every time. I make six batches in four hours now.
Homemade Soap Equipment: Stainless steel stock pot, half gallon glass jar, rubber spatula, or long handled wooden spoon. Scale that will weigh up to 38 ounces, thermometer, meat or candy is fine, mold with cover (I recommend a heavy plastic mold the size of a large shoe box if you intend to make soap only occasionally). I use an industrial plastic sheet of freezer paper, two large towels, or a blanket. *SAFETY GLASSES*, RUBBER GLOVES.
Ingredients: 12 oz lye (Red Devil, found beside Draino, do not use Draino), 32 oz water (My well water is hard so I buy it), 24 oz coconut oil (health food store), 24 oz olive oil (do not use virgin, the less pure the better), 38 oz vegetable oil (Crisco solid, not liquid oil), 4 oz fragrance/essential oil if desired botanicals if desired (8 oz pulverized oatmeal or 4 oz cornmeal or 2 oz dried herbs/flowers Dissolve lye in water).
This is best done under an exhaust fan or outdoor. Stand back and avoid fumes. Set aside to cool. In the stainless steel stock pot melt the Crisco and coconut oil. Add the olive oil and allow to cool. Grease your soap mold now. Some soap makers prefer silicone spray but my purpose in making my own soap is to avoid using things like that. I use Crisco. Fit the freezer paper into the bottom and two sides of the mold to make removing the soap easier. Grease the paper. When both the oils and lye mixtures have cooled to 90* you are ready to blend. You can speed cooling by using a sink of cool water and setting the mixtures in to cool. If one cools too much you can warm it in a sink of warm water. You need to have 10-40 minutes of uninterrupted time now. Slowly pour the water/lye mixture into the oils. You'll quickly see a reaction. Stir in a consistent manner. Don't beat as you would eggs but stir quickly enough to keep the mixture in constant motion. If you're creating bubbles in the mixture you are going too fast. Continue to stir until the soap "traces." You'll feel a slight difference in consistency as the soap begins to saponify. When tracing has occurred you'll be able to drizzle a small amount of soap back onto the top of the soap in the pan and it will leave a trace before sinking back into the rest of the mixture. After a batch or two you'll recognize when tracing has occurred by the feel of the soap while stirring. If you want to add botanicals/grains to your soap now is the time to do it. Remove one cup of soap (doesn't need to be exactly a cup, whatever it takes to mix with the botanical/grains) and stir in with whatever you're adding in a separate bowl. Oatmeal makes a nice complexion soap, corn meal adds texture to scrub dirty hands. As soon as it's mixed pour it back into the pan and stir. If you're going to add essential or fragrance oil pour it in slowly now. Continue to stir until well mixed then pour into prepared mold. Cover mold, wrap it in towels or blanket to keep warm and leave it undisturbed for 18 hours. No peaking! The soap will rise to approximately 160* and then cool down. Don't uncover until it's cooled. Allow soap to sit in the uncovered mold for 12 hours. Loosen sides and turn over onto a clean sideboard. You should cut your bars from the large mold within three days. You can cut it at any time but three days seems to be a good window. The soap doesn't become difficult to cut and smaller bars cure faster. Allow to cure 3-6 weeks before using.
Allow yourself 90 minutes to do this the first time. It's easier every time. I make six batches in four hours now.
Homemade Soap Equipment: Stainless steel stock pot, half gallon glass jar, rubber spatula, or long handled wooden spoon. Scale that will weigh up to 38 ounces, thermometer, meat or candy is fine, mold with cover (I recommend a heavy plastic mold the size of a large shoe box if you intend to make soap only occasionally). I use an industrial plastic sheet of freezer paper, two large towels, or a blanket. *SAFETY GLASSES*, RUBBER GLOVES.
Ingredients: 12 oz lye (Red Devil, found beside Draino, do not use Draino), 32 oz water (My well water is hard so I buy it), 24 oz coconut oil (health food store), 24 oz olive oil (do not use virgin, the less pure the better), 38 oz vegetable oil (Crisco solid, not liquid oil), 4 oz fragrance/essential oil if desired botanicals if desired (8 oz pulverized oatmeal or 4 oz cornmeal or 2 oz dried herbs/flowers Dissolve lye in water).
This is best done under an exhaust fan or outdoor. Stand back and avoid fumes. Set aside to cool. In the stainless steel stock pot melt the Crisco and coconut oil. Add the olive oil and allow to cool. Grease your soap mold now. Some soap makers prefer silicone spray but my purpose in making my own soap is to avoid using things like that. I use Crisco. Fit the freezer paper into the bottom and two sides of the mold to make removing the soap easier. Grease the paper. When both the oils and lye mixtures have cooled to 90* you are ready to blend. You can speed cooling by using a sink of cool water and setting the mixtures in to cool. If one cools too much you can warm it in a sink of warm water. You need to have 10-40 minutes of uninterrupted time now. Slowly pour the water/lye mixture into the oils. You'll quickly see a reaction. Stir in a consistent manner. Don't beat as you would eggs but stir quickly enough to keep the mixture in constant motion. If you're creating bubbles in the mixture you are going too fast. Continue to stir until the soap "traces." You'll feel a slight difference in consistency as the soap begins to saponify. When tracing has occurred you'll be able to drizzle a small amount of soap back onto the top of the soap in the pan and it will leave a trace before sinking back into the rest of the mixture. After a batch or two you'll recognize when tracing has occurred by the feel of the soap while stirring. If you want to add botanicals/grains to your soap now is the time to do it. Remove one cup of soap (doesn't need to be exactly a cup, whatever it takes to mix with the botanical/grains) and stir in with whatever you're adding in a separate bowl. Oatmeal makes a nice complexion soap, corn meal adds texture to scrub dirty hands. As soon as it's mixed pour it back into the pan and stir. If you're going to add essential or fragrance oil pour it in slowly now. Continue to stir until well mixed then pour into prepared mold. Cover mold, wrap it in towels or blanket to keep warm and leave it undisturbed for 18 hours. No peaking! The soap will rise to approximately 160* and then cool down. Don't uncover until it's cooled. Allow soap to sit in the uncovered mold for 12 hours. Loosen sides and turn over onto a clean sideboard. You should cut your bars from the large mold within three days. You can cut it at any time but three days seems to be a good window. The soap doesn't become difficult to cut and smaller bars cure faster. Allow to cure 3-6 weeks before using.
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Print this chart and fold the left two panels together. Use the third panel as a slider inside like and old school slide rule.
Convert an old walk behind tiller to electric. http://www.pluginncw.com/rototillerconversion
Forwarded from Boogaloo Intel Drop📡
Slicing the pie:
Shooting tactic taught in tactical training. Very essential urban combat technique used by police and military.
Slicing the “PIE” is a tool that’s found on every belt of anyone who puts their name in the same sentence as “Tactics”.
Doorways, hallways and open spaces are not the only reasons to slice the pie. This can be done searching vehicles, corners of buildings, open areas with obstacles and so on. Each of these has a reference or axis that you will use for maximum cover/concealment before over-committing.
https://youtu.be/-kYtbzapxD0
https://sofrep.com/gear/basic-tactics-slicing-pie/
Shooting tactic taught in tactical training. Very essential urban combat technique used by police and military.
Slicing the “PIE” is a tool that’s found on every belt of anyone who puts their name in the same sentence as “Tactics”.
Doorways, hallways and open spaces are not the only reasons to slice the pie. This can be done searching vehicles, corners of buildings, open areas with obstacles and so on. Each of these has a reference or axis that you will use for maximum cover/concealment before over-committing.
https://youtu.be/-kYtbzapxD0
https://sofrep.com/gear/basic-tactics-slicing-pie/
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