Forwarded from Boogaloo Intel Drop📡
For those of you wanting to see why the scree is valuable, this is why. This is a 50 liter Mystery ranch overload, regarded as the best pack ever created for heavy loads. Ive carried 150lbs down a mountain with it before with zero issues.
The Overload weighs 10lbs by itself. The Scree 2.8. The Overload is way to big for everything but hiking trips of 3+ days, or will be moving 5 gallon water jugs or other heavy items.
Simply put, it's overkill for 90% of the time you need a pack. And the 750$ price tag is a bit much for guys still putting together their kit and food storage. Large hiking packs stand out in the back of a vehicle or when walking around town or heading into work. The Scree doesn't. It matches the modern style of suburban daypacks while retaining mystery ranches pedigree of serious durability and comfort.
The Overload weighs 10lbs by itself. The Scree 2.8. The Overload is way to big for everything but hiking trips of 3+ days, or will be moving 5 gallon water jugs or other heavy items.
Simply put, it's overkill for 90% of the time you need a pack. And the 750$ price tag is a bit much for guys still putting together their kit and food storage. Large hiking packs stand out in the back of a vehicle or when walking around town or heading into work. The Scree doesn't. It matches the modern style of suburban daypacks while retaining mystery ranches pedigree of serious durability and comfort.
I always recommend a smaller pack for people just starting out in the backpacking and prepping world. An overweight backpack is not only potentially dangerous, but is also extremely hindering, especially for beginners. Smaller backpacks will teach you packing discipline. Knowing what you absolutely do and do not need innawoods is a life saving skill in itself. Start small. Once you can live innawoods comfortably for 2-3 days off a smaller pack like the scree, you can move to the larger packs and extended camping trips. Minimalists like Dave Canterbury are a fantastic resource, check out this youtube mini series on minimalism philosophy.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLZLagqylZ3j7IO_jphU1iQAlSN6DC4XJI
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLZLagqylZ3j7IO_jphU1iQAlSN6DC4XJI
Forwarded from Living off the Land
Goats are versatile animals that's can be used for their meat or milk.
Goat breeds most suited to meat production include Boer, spanish, and Pygmy goats. Saanen, Nubian, and Nigerian dwarf goats are better suited for milk production.
They are social animals, so two is a good number to start with. They need to have a space sheltered from rain and wind. An old shed filled with straw or wood shavings for bedding works quite well.
Sturdy fencing is also a must. Don't use barbwire, or they'll just escape and hurt themselves as well. Welded wire fences can work, but a pallet fence is cheaper and sturdier.
As far as space is concerned, 6-8 goats can fit on an acre. If you don't have that much space for grazing, timothy grass and alfalfa can be fed. They usually sell alfalfa pellets at feed stores. Alfalfa's higher protein content is good for lactating nanny's. 2-4 pounds hay/day per goat. If they have a rough coat or thin frame, you can also give some grain. Minerals should also be given. 1cup/day per goat
Goat breeds most suited to meat production include Boer, spanish, and Pygmy goats. Saanen, Nubian, and Nigerian dwarf goats are better suited for milk production.
They are social animals, so two is a good number to start with. They need to have a space sheltered from rain and wind. An old shed filled with straw or wood shavings for bedding works quite well.
Sturdy fencing is also a must. Don't use barbwire, or they'll just escape and hurt themselves as well. Welded wire fences can work, but a pallet fence is cheaper and sturdier.
As far as space is concerned, 6-8 goats can fit on an acre. If you don't have that much space for grazing, timothy grass and alfalfa can be fed. They usually sell alfalfa pellets at feed stores. Alfalfa's higher protein content is good for lactating nanny's. 2-4 pounds hay/day per goat. If they have a rough coat or thin frame, you can also give some grain. Minerals should also be given. 1cup/day per goat
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One of the better designs I've seen for a mobile miter/table saw station.
For those of you that don't have a track saw, you can actually just get a track saw guide for your circular saw that seems to work pretty well. It works decently if a bit more finnicky, but can be had for around $80 for the Kreg model versus several hundred for a track saw setup.
One thing I would change on this design is put more support for the table saw at the end and probably relocate the wheels there. You obviously don't have to plane the edges of the board for a "cleaner look" as he suggested either if you don't want to.
However, the design choices are solid without a lot of time consuming frills, and this nerdy little fellow explains all the steps very well with his narration.
Full design on his website here:
https://www.mosermakes.com/projects/multifunction-workbench
For those of you that don't have a track saw, you can actually just get a track saw guide for your circular saw that seems to work pretty well. It works decently if a bit more finnicky, but can be had for around $80 for the Kreg model versus several hundred for a track saw setup.
One thing I would change on this design is put more support for the table saw at the end and probably relocate the wheels there. You obviously don't have to plane the edges of the board for a "cleaner look" as he suggested either if you don't want to.
However, the design choices are solid without a lot of time consuming frills, and this nerdy little fellow explains all the steps very well with his narration.
Full design on his website here:
https://www.mosermakes.com/projects/multifunction-workbench
Forwarded from Dr. Centaurium
Water-glassed Eggs
These are homegrown, unwashed eggs stored in lime water. The lime water fills in all the pores of the egg and encases them in a shell of "glass". Water glassed eggs can last stored at room temperature like this for up to 2 years. This method of preserving raw eggs has been used since the 1800s and was common even into the 1940s and 50s. When refrigerators became a standard kitchen appliance, water glassing almost became a lost art.
You cannot use commercial eggs for this because they have all had the protective coating (bloom) washed off the shell and will quickly go bad. I recently scrambled up 18 eggs that had been stored in lime water for 7 months on an unrefrigerated cupboard shelf and they tasted perfectly fresh (although the yoke seemed a bit thinner than fresh eggs).
Anyhow, if you have an abundance of fresh, unwashed eggs, you might want to try putting some away for later. The ratio is one ounce (by weight) of lime (calcium hydroxide) to one quart of water. Calcium hydroxide is a completely natural, organic ingredient and harmless, although the powder is very fine and may irritate your lungs if you breathe it in. The lime water also quickly dried out the skin on my hands and I had to apply lotion to get them back to normal. When you do use the eggs, be sure to rinse them thoroughly before you crack them or they will taste like lime.
FYI: a gallon size container will store about 40 eggs. Lime is also known as calcium hydroxide. You can buy it in 50 pound bags in the masonry section of the hardware store, or in 1 pound bags in the canning section of the grocery store....often labeled as "pickling lime”.
These are homegrown, unwashed eggs stored in lime water. The lime water fills in all the pores of the egg and encases them in a shell of "glass". Water glassed eggs can last stored at room temperature like this for up to 2 years. This method of preserving raw eggs has been used since the 1800s and was common even into the 1940s and 50s. When refrigerators became a standard kitchen appliance, water glassing almost became a lost art.
You cannot use commercial eggs for this because they have all had the protective coating (bloom) washed off the shell and will quickly go bad. I recently scrambled up 18 eggs that had been stored in lime water for 7 months on an unrefrigerated cupboard shelf and they tasted perfectly fresh (although the yoke seemed a bit thinner than fresh eggs).
Anyhow, if you have an abundance of fresh, unwashed eggs, you might want to try putting some away for later. The ratio is one ounce (by weight) of lime (calcium hydroxide) to one quart of water. Calcium hydroxide is a completely natural, organic ingredient and harmless, although the powder is very fine and may irritate your lungs if you breathe it in. The lime water also quickly dried out the skin on my hands and I had to apply lotion to get them back to normal. When you do use the eggs, be sure to rinse them thoroughly before you crack them or they will taste like lime.
FYI: a gallon size container will store about 40 eggs. Lime is also known as calcium hydroxide. You can buy it in 50 pound bags in the masonry section of the hardware store, or in 1 pound bags in the canning section of the grocery store....often labeled as "pickling lime”.
Making Soap
Allow yourself 90 minutes to do this the first time. It's easier every time. I make six batches in four hours now.
Homemade Soap Equipment: Stainless steel stock pot, half gallon glass jar, rubber spatula, or long handled wooden spoon. Scale that will weigh up to 38 ounces, thermometer, meat or candy is fine, mold with cover (I recommend a heavy plastic mold the size of a large shoe box if you intend to make soap only occasionally). I use an industrial plastic sheet of freezer paper, two large towels, or a blanket. *SAFETY GLASSES*, RUBBER GLOVES.
Ingredients: 12 oz lye (Red Devil, found beside Draino, do not use Draino), 32 oz water (My well water is hard so I buy it), 24 oz coconut oil (health food store), 24 oz olive oil (do not use virgin, the less pure the better), 38 oz vegetable oil (Crisco solid, not liquid oil), 4 oz fragrance/essential oil if desired botanicals if desired (8 oz pulverized oatmeal or 4 oz cornmeal or 2 oz dried herbs/flowers Dissolve lye in water).
This is best done under an exhaust fan or outdoor. Stand back and avoid fumes. Set aside to cool. In the stainless steel stock pot melt the Crisco and coconut oil. Add the olive oil and allow to cool. Grease your soap mold now. Some soap makers prefer silicone spray but my purpose in making my own soap is to avoid using things like that. I use Crisco. Fit the freezer paper into the bottom and two sides of the mold to make removing the soap easier. Grease the paper. When both the oils and lye mixtures have cooled to 90* you are ready to blend. You can speed cooling by using a sink of cool water and setting the mixtures in to cool. If one cools too much you can warm it in a sink of warm water. You need to have 10-40 minutes of uninterrupted time now. Slowly pour the water/lye mixture into the oils. You'll quickly see a reaction. Stir in a consistent manner. Don't beat as you would eggs but stir quickly enough to keep the mixture in constant motion. If you're creating bubbles in the mixture you are going too fast. Continue to stir until the soap "traces." You'll feel a slight difference in consistency as the soap begins to saponify. When tracing has occurred you'll be able to drizzle a small amount of soap back onto the top of the soap in the pan and it will leave a trace before sinking back into the rest of the mixture. After a batch or two you'll recognize when tracing has occurred by the feel of the soap while stirring. If you want to add botanicals/grains to your soap now is the time to do it. Remove one cup of soap (doesn't need to be exactly a cup, whatever it takes to mix with the botanical/grains) and stir in with whatever you're adding in a separate bowl. Oatmeal makes a nice complexion soap, corn meal adds texture to scrub dirty hands. As soon as it's mixed pour it back into the pan and stir. If you're going to add essential or fragrance oil pour it in slowly now. Continue to stir until well mixed then pour into prepared mold. Cover mold, wrap it in towels or blanket to keep warm and leave it undisturbed for 18 hours. No peaking! The soap will rise to approximately 160* and then cool down. Don't uncover until it's cooled. Allow soap to sit in the uncovered mold for 12 hours. Loosen sides and turn over onto a clean sideboard. You should cut your bars from the large mold within three days. You can cut it at any time but three days seems to be a good window. The soap doesn't become difficult to cut and smaller bars cure faster. Allow to cure 3-6 weeks before using.
Allow yourself 90 minutes to do this the first time. It's easier every time. I make six batches in four hours now.
Homemade Soap Equipment: Stainless steel stock pot, half gallon glass jar, rubber spatula, or long handled wooden spoon. Scale that will weigh up to 38 ounces, thermometer, meat or candy is fine, mold with cover (I recommend a heavy plastic mold the size of a large shoe box if you intend to make soap only occasionally). I use an industrial plastic sheet of freezer paper, two large towels, or a blanket. *SAFETY GLASSES*, RUBBER GLOVES.
Ingredients: 12 oz lye (Red Devil, found beside Draino, do not use Draino), 32 oz water (My well water is hard so I buy it), 24 oz coconut oil (health food store), 24 oz olive oil (do not use virgin, the less pure the better), 38 oz vegetable oil (Crisco solid, not liquid oil), 4 oz fragrance/essential oil if desired botanicals if desired (8 oz pulverized oatmeal or 4 oz cornmeal or 2 oz dried herbs/flowers Dissolve lye in water).
This is best done under an exhaust fan or outdoor. Stand back and avoid fumes. Set aside to cool. In the stainless steel stock pot melt the Crisco and coconut oil. Add the olive oil and allow to cool. Grease your soap mold now. Some soap makers prefer silicone spray but my purpose in making my own soap is to avoid using things like that. I use Crisco. Fit the freezer paper into the bottom and two sides of the mold to make removing the soap easier. Grease the paper. When both the oils and lye mixtures have cooled to 90* you are ready to blend. You can speed cooling by using a sink of cool water and setting the mixtures in to cool. If one cools too much you can warm it in a sink of warm water. You need to have 10-40 minutes of uninterrupted time now. Slowly pour the water/lye mixture into the oils. You'll quickly see a reaction. Stir in a consistent manner. Don't beat as you would eggs but stir quickly enough to keep the mixture in constant motion. If you're creating bubbles in the mixture you are going too fast. Continue to stir until the soap "traces." You'll feel a slight difference in consistency as the soap begins to saponify. When tracing has occurred you'll be able to drizzle a small amount of soap back onto the top of the soap in the pan and it will leave a trace before sinking back into the rest of the mixture. After a batch or two you'll recognize when tracing has occurred by the feel of the soap while stirring. If you want to add botanicals/grains to your soap now is the time to do it. Remove one cup of soap (doesn't need to be exactly a cup, whatever it takes to mix with the botanical/grains) and stir in with whatever you're adding in a separate bowl. Oatmeal makes a nice complexion soap, corn meal adds texture to scrub dirty hands. As soon as it's mixed pour it back into the pan and stir. If you're going to add essential or fragrance oil pour it in slowly now. Continue to stir until well mixed then pour into prepared mold. Cover mold, wrap it in towels or blanket to keep warm and leave it undisturbed for 18 hours. No peaking! The soap will rise to approximately 160* and then cool down. Don't uncover until it's cooled. Allow soap to sit in the uncovered mold for 12 hours. Loosen sides and turn over onto a clean sideboard. You should cut your bars from the large mold within three days. You can cut it at any time but three days seems to be a good window. The soap doesn't become difficult to cut and smaller bars cure faster. Allow to cure 3-6 weeks before using.
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Print this chart and fold the left two panels together. Use the third panel as a slider inside like and old school slide rule.
Convert an old walk behind tiller to electric. http://www.pluginncw.com/rototillerconversion
Forwarded from Boogaloo Intel Drop📡
Slicing the pie:
Shooting tactic taught in tactical training. Very essential urban combat technique used by police and military.
Slicing the “PIE” is a tool that’s found on every belt of anyone who puts their name in the same sentence as “Tactics”.
Doorways, hallways and open spaces are not the only reasons to slice the pie. This can be done searching vehicles, corners of buildings, open areas with obstacles and so on. Each of these has a reference or axis that you will use for maximum cover/concealment before over-committing.
https://youtu.be/-kYtbzapxD0
https://sofrep.com/gear/basic-tactics-slicing-pie/
Shooting tactic taught in tactical training. Very essential urban combat technique used by police and military.
Slicing the “PIE” is a tool that’s found on every belt of anyone who puts their name in the same sentence as “Tactics”.
Doorways, hallways and open spaces are not the only reasons to slice the pie. This can be done searching vehicles, corners of buildings, open areas with obstacles and so on. Each of these has a reference or axis that you will use for maximum cover/concealment before over-committing.
https://youtu.be/-kYtbzapxD0
https://sofrep.com/gear/basic-tactics-slicing-pie/
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