Old School Traditional off grid preserving...
This is about as “old school” as preserving full chunks of meat gets.
No fridge , no special tools or equipment, no special curing chamber...just salt, pepper and the animal.
Traditionally large pieces of meat are kept on rotation. So as new prices are going into the cure, last years pieces are finishing up and ready to use. Creating a stable food cycle.
The process is very simple. In a box or bin that can drain, add 2” salt, lay meat down, and cover with more salt for 1 day per lb .
Remove meat, rinse clean with water, pat dry and check for any spoilage. Ie: smell, molds, slimy texture....
Optional but I recommend highly! I rendered all the fat from my hog into pure lard. I then mix the lard with black pepper and apply a thin layer all over the leg (up to the hanging point) . This not only keeps the meat clean and the pepper will deter any bugs, it also allows for slower more even drying. If it dries too fast you can get a hard case on the meat not letting water escape and ultimately failure.
Now you hang the legs and walk away.
Mine went into the salt at about. 22 lbs and came out at 15 lbs - my goal is 35% weight loss now so I’m looking for this to come out at 10 lbs basically. This will take 10-20 months.
At that point this is fully cured. It can just be sliced and ate or trimmed and cooked.
Notes;
1. You can remove them and eat them prior to full weight loss but note they will be raw still and have to be fully cooked!
2. These can hang indefinitely. They never go bad.
3. Mold may grow on the surface. That’s ok if it’s white or green powdery mold. Coloured mold like red, black, yellow, rich blues are BAD AND DANGEROUS. Some say if caught early that can be cut off and re salted but note those mold types are very rare but can kill you.
This is about as “old school” as preserving full chunks of meat gets.
No fridge , no special tools or equipment, no special curing chamber...just salt, pepper and the animal.
Traditionally large pieces of meat are kept on rotation. So as new prices are going into the cure, last years pieces are finishing up and ready to use. Creating a stable food cycle.
The process is very simple. In a box or bin that can drain, add 2” salt, lay meat down, and cover with more salt for 1 day per lb .
Remove meat, rinse clean with water, pat dry and check for any spoilage. Ie: smell, molds, slimy texture....
Optional but I recommend highly! I rendered all the fat from my hog into pure lard. I then mix the lard with black pepper and apply a thin layer all over the leg (up to the hanging point) . This not only keeps the meat clean and the pepper will deter any bugs, it also allows for slower more even drying. If it dries too fast you can get a hard case on the meat not letting water escape and ultimately failure.
Now you hang the legs and walk away.
Mine went into the salt at about. 22 lbs and came out at 15 lbs - my goal is 35% weight loss now so I’m looking for this to come out at 10 lbs basically. This will take 10-20 months.
At that point this is fully cured. It can just be sliced and ate or trimmed and cooked.
Notes;
1. You can remove them and eat them prior to full weight loss but note they will be raw still and have to be fully cooked!
2. These can hang indefinitely. They never go bad.
3. Mold may grow on the surface. That’s ok if it’s white or green powdery mold. Coloured mold like red, black, yellow, rich blues are BAD AND DANGEROUS. Some say if caught early that can be cut off and re salted but note those mold types are very rare but can kill you.
The 'United' States has entered in to a new era of division and confusion. There are new videos coming out of cities nation-wide, daily, of protest and violence. The violence and tyranny wont end at the hand of any candidate. This is a funded and coordinated attack on the American people. You must realize this. The (((globalists))) are choosing full acceleration. While everyone is losing their minds about who won this (s)election, go out and better yourself and your preparations. Furthermore, the tyrannical grip brought upon us by COVID isn't going away; the riots/ violence and degeneracy will get far worse. Distance yourself and family from the vile simulation that is what we call society. Network, outside the grid. Consider this a friendly PSA
TIPS FOR DIAGNOSING A NO START VEHICLE
This can be a very complicated subject in modern cars, given that many have very sophisticated computer and security systems. However, the basics still apply in the majority of situations...
Internal combustion engines typically need 3 things to start:
Fuel, air, and spark.
The most common issue is spark. 99% of a no spark condition is typically a low charged battery. Even if the vehicle cranks, the battery may be low. It should be common practice for any serious prepper to have a jump pack that can read voltage. Also, battery leads should be inspected for looseness / corrosion. Clean corrosion and tighten leads as necessary.
Next, inspect all of your spark plug wires. Ensure that they are all properly connected and not damaged. Familiarize yourself with the diagnostic steps regarding spark plugs and ignition systems such as coil-on-plug or distributor style.
Inspect the grounds related to the starter and ignition system. Oftentimes these can become corroded, or loose if someone has been in there messing with them.
It's good practice to have a Haynes/Chilton manual on hand to use as a reference for these diagrams.
This can be a very complicated subject in modern cars, given that many have very sophisticated computer and security systems. However, the basics still apply in the majority of situations...
Internal combustion engines typically need 3 things to start:
Fuel, air, and spark.
The most common issue is spark. 99% of a no spark condition is typically a low charged battery. Even if the vehicle cranks, the battery may be low. It should be common practice for any serious prepper to have a jump pack that can read voltage. Also, battery leads should be inspected for looseness / corrosion. Clean corrosion and tighten leads as necessary.
Next, inspect all of your spark plug wires. Ensure that they are all properly connected and not damaged. Familiarize yourself with the diagnostic steps regarding spark plugs and ignition systems such as coil-on-plug or distributor style.
Inspect the grounds related to the starter and ignition system. Oftentimes these can become corroded, or loose if someone has been in there messing with them.
It's good practice to have a Haynes/Chilton manual on hand to use as a reference for these diagrams.
As far as the starter itself goes, keep if the electrical system tests good and you hear a "click" down below the undercarriage with no start, the starter motor itself may be seized. Hitting it with a hammer using moderate force can be a temporary fix until you can replace the unit.
As fair as air goes, the process is fairly simple. Assuming that fuel and spark is present, here is some basic troubleshooting:
First, check the intake. Insure that the air filter isn't plugged up. Additionally, if the vehicle has been sitting a while there may be rodents nests in the intake causing an obstruction.
Next, ensure the throttle body is functioning properly. Oftentimes dirt can cause the flap to become seized and it may need to be cleaned. If this fails, it may need to be replaced.
Last common issue is the mass airflow sensor. Ensure it is plugged in and that all associated wiring is good. After completing this troubleshooting step, disconnect the sensor and thoroughly clean the connections with proper MAF cleaner. For good measure, apply a thin coat of dielectric grease to ensure longevity and a good connection.
First, check the intake. Insure that the air filter isn't plugged up. Additionally, if the vehicle has been sitting a while there may be rodents nests in the intake causing an obstruction.
Next, ensure the throttle body is functioning properly. Oftentimes dirt can cause the flap to become seized and it may need to be cleaned. If this fails, it may need to be replaced.
Last common issue is the mass airflow sensor. Ensure it is plugged in and that all associated wiring is good. After completing this troubleshooting step, disconnect the sensor and thoroughly clean the connections with proper MAF cleaner. For good measure, apply a thin coat of dielectric grease to ensure longevity and a good connection.
Fuel is easy to begin diagnosis, however can be more complicated as things get ruled out via troubleshooting procedures.
The very first thing you should do is keep the door/windows open, and turn the key to the "on" position. You should hear a low hum from the back of your vehicle indicating function of the fuel pump. If you do not hear this, the fuel pump is bad.
As a general rule, do not run your vehicle consistently low on fuel. This will cause premature wear to the fuel system, particularly the pump as it has to work harder.
After confirming pump function, next inspect the fuel filter. If it looks old, it is probably bad. These items are typically replaced at 20,000 miles and if they clog you will not get proper fuel pressure. You can replace it, or in an emergency it can be bypassed (not advisable).
If the fuel filter looks new, the next step should be determining if the fuel rail is receiving fuel. Disconnect the line at the fuel rail and turn the key on. Fuel should spit out at this point. If it doesn't, the fuel pressure regulator could be bad or the fuel lines could have a fault.
The very last step is fuel injectors. These should be disconnected and inspected for injector pulse. Do not let your fuel tank consistently run low and be sure to use injector cleaner additives to ensure good health of injectors. Injectors typically fail because the operator does not follow the above steps and they become clogged.
Injectors can be removed and cleaned, but best results will come from replacing them.
The very first thing you should do is keep the door/windows open, and turn the key to the "on" position. You should hear a low hum from the back of your vehicle indicating function of the fuel pump. If you do not hear this, the fuel pump is bad.
As a general rule, do not run your vehicle consistently low on fuel. This will cause premature wear to the fuel system, particularly the pump as it has to work harder.
After confirming pump function, next inspect the fuel filter. If it looks old, it is probably bad. These items are typically replaced at 20,000 miles and if they clog you will not get proper fuel pressure. You can replace it, or in an emergency it can be bypassed (not advisable).
If the fuel filter looks new, the next step should be determining if the fuel rail is receiving fuel. Disconnect the line at the fuel rail and turn the key on. Fuel should spit out at this point. If it doesn't, the fuel pressure regulator could be bad or the fuel lines could have a fault.
The very last step is fuel injectors. These should be disconnected and inspected for injector pulse. Do not let your fuel tank consistently run low and be sure to use injector cleaner additives to ensure good health of injectors. Injectors typically fail because the operator does not follow the above steps and they become clogged.
Injectors can be removed and cleaned, but best results will come from replacing them.
Forwarded from Boogaloo Intel Drop📡
Here's a basic example of what you can fit comfortably in the Scree pack. I would not go heavier than this, because with a full load of 2-4 liters of water this would be uncomfortable by the end of a long hike. I was able to fit:
Ar 15 broken down
Three 30 round mags with crye clips (a must have for bug out bags since the mags can be moved to hip belt for quick access)
USGI poncho
3 liter bladder and inline filter
3 days food
Large woobie blanket
Full sized trauma/first aid kit
40 oz stainless nalgene with pot/cup/stove nested
Gloves/hat/scarf
Radio
Grid fleece pullover
This was without using the side pockets, top pocket, or hip belt pockets which I save for small items.
It should be noted that the hip belt is suitable for 25lbs absolute max. The pack can carry more but the load will begin to transfer to your shoulders. Its very comfortable 20 lbs and below.
Ar 15 broken down
Three 30 round mags with crye clips (a must have for bug out bags since the mags can be moved to hip belt for quick access)
USGI poncho
3 liter bladder and inline filter
3 days food
Large woobie blanket
Full sized trauma/first aid kit
40 oz stainless nalgene with pot/cup/stove nested
Gloves/hat/scarf
Radio
Grid fleece pullover
This was without using the side pockets, top pocket, or hip belt pockets which I save for small items.
It should be noted that the hip belt is suitable for 25lbs absolute max. The pack can carry more but the load will begin to transfer to your shoulders. Its very comfortable 20 lbs and below.
Forwarded from Boogaloo Intel Drop📡
For those of you wanting to see why the scree is valuable, this is why. This is a 50 liter Mystery ranch overload, regarded as the best pack ever created for heavy loads. Ive carried 150lbs down a mountain with it before with zero issues.
The Overload weighs 10lbs by itself. The Scree 2.8. The Overload is way to big for everything but hiking trips of 3+ days, or will be moving 5 gallon water jugs or other heavy items.
Simply put, it's overkill for 90% of the time you need a pack. And the 750$ price tag is a bit much for guys still putting together their kit and food storage. Large hiking packs stand out in the back of a vehicle or when walking around town or heading into work. The Scree doesn't. It matches the modern style of suburban daypacks while retaining mystery ranches pedigree of serious durability and comfort.
The Overload weighs 10lbs by itself. The Scree 2.8. The Overload is way to big for everything but hiking trips of 3+ days, or will be moving 5 gallon water jugs or other heavy items.
Simply put, it's overkill for 90% of the time you need a pack. And the 750$ price tag is a bit much for guys still putting together their kit and food storage. Large hiking packs stand out in the back of a vehicle or when walking around town or heading into work. The Scree doesn't. It matches the modern style of suburban daypacks while retaining mystery ranches pedigree of serious durability and comfort.
I always recommend a smaller pack for people just starting out in the backpacking and prepping world. An overweight backpack is not only potentially dangerous, but is also extremely hindering, especially for beginners. Smaller backpacks will teach you packing discipline. Knowing what you absolutely do and do not need innawoods is a life saving skill in itself. Start small. Once you can live innawoods comfortably for 2-3 days off a smaller pack like the scree, you can move to the larger packs and extended camping trips. Minimalists like Dave Canterbury are a fantastic resource, check out this youtube mini series on minimalism philosophy.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLZLagqylZ3j7IO_jphU1iQAlSN6DC4XJI
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLZLagqylZ3j7IO_jphU1iQAlSN6DC4XJI
Forwarded from Living off the Land
Goats are versatile animals that's can be used for their meat or milk.
Goat breeds most suited to meat production include Boer, spanish, and Pygmy goats. Saanen, Nubian, and Nigerian dwarf goats are better suited for milk production.
They are social animals, so two is a good number to start with. They need to have a space sheltered from rain and wind. An old shed filled with straw or wood shavings for bedding works quite well.
Sturdy fencing is also a must. Don't use barbwire, or they'll just escape and hurt themselves as well. Welded wire fences can work, but a pallet fence is cheaper and sturdier.
As far as space is concerned, 6-8 goats can fit on an acre. If you don't have that much space for grazing, timothy grass and alfalfa can be fed. They usually sell alfalfa pellets at feed stores. Alfalfa's higher protein content is good for lactating nanny's. 2-4 pounds hay/day per goat. If they have a rough coat or thin frame, you can also give some grain. Minerals should also be given. 1cup/day per goat
Goat breeds most suited to meat production include Boer, spanish, and Pygmy goats. Saanen, Nubian, and Nigerian dwarf goats are better suited for milk production.
They are social animals, so two is a good number to start with. They need to have a space sheltered from rain and wind. An old shed filled with straw or wood shavings for bedding works quite well.
Sturdy fencing is also a must. Don't use barbwire, or they'll just escape and hurt themselves as well. Welded wire fences can work, but a pallet fence is cheaper and sturdier.
As far as space is concerned, 6-8 goats can fit on an acre. If you don't have that much space for grazing, timothy grass and alfalfa can be fed. They usually sell alfalfa pellets at feed stores. Alfalfa's higher protein content is good for lactating nanny's. 2-4 pounds hay/day per goat. If they have a rough coat or thin frame, you can also give some grain. Minerals should also be given. 1cup/day per goat
Media is too big
VIEW IN TELEGRAM
One of the better designs I've seen for a mobile miter/table saw station.
For those of you that don't have a track saw, you can actually just get a track saw guide for your circular saw that seems to work pretty well. It works decently if a bit more finnicky, but can be had for around $80 for the Kreg model versus several hundred for a track saw setup.
One thing I would change on this design is put more support for the table saw at the end and probably relocate the wheels there. You obviously don't have to plane the edges of the board for a "cleaner look" as he suggested either if you don't want to.
However, the design choices are solid without a lot of time consuming frills, and this nerdy little fellow explains all the steps very well with his narration.
Full design on his website here:
https://www.mosermakes.com/projects/multifunction-workbench
For those of you that don't have a track saw, you can actually just get a track saw guide for your circular saw that seems to work pretty well. It works decently if a bit more finnicky, but can be had for around $80 for the Kreg model versus several hundred for a track saw setup.
One thing I would change on this design is put more support for the table saw at the end and probably relocate the wheels there. You obviously don't have to plane the edges of the board for a "cleaner look" as he suggested either if you don't want to.
However, the design choices are solid without a lot of time consuming frills, and this nerdy little fellow explains all the steps very well with his narration.
Full design on his website here:
https://www.mosermakes.com/projects/multifunction-workbench
Forwarded from Dr. Centaurium
Water-glassed Eggs
These are homegrown, unwashed eggs stored in lime water. The lime water fills in all the pores of the egg and encases them in a shell of "glass". Water glassed eggs can last stored at room temperature like this for up to 2 years. This method of preserving raw eggs has been used since the 1800s and was common even into the 1940s and 50s. When refrigerators became a standard kitchen appliance, water glassing almost became a lost art.
You cannot use commercial eggs for this because they have all had the protective coating (bloom) washed off the shell and will quickly go bad. I recently scrambled up 18 eggs that had been stored in lime water for 7 months on an unrefrigerated cupboard shelf and they tasted perfectly fresh (although the yoke seemed a bit thinner than fresh eggs).
Anyhow, if you have an abundance of fresh, unwashed eggs, you might want to try putting some away for later. The ratio is one ounce (by weight) of lime (calcium hydroxide) to one quart of water. Calcium hydroxide is a completely natural, organic ingredient and harmless, although the powder is very fine and may irritate your lungs if you breathe it in. The lime water also quickly dried out the skin on my hands and I had to apply lotion to get them back to normal. When you do use the eggs, be sure to rinse them thoroughly before you crack them or they will taste like lime.
FYI: a gallon size container will store about 40 eggs. Lime is also known as calcium hydroxide. You can buy it in 50 pound bags in the masonry section of the hardware store, or in 1 pound bags in the canning section of the grocery store....often labeled as "pickling lime”.
These are homegrown, unwashed eggs stored in lime water. The lime water fills in all the pores of the egg and encases them in a shell of "glass". Water glassed eggs can last stored at room temperature like this for up to 2 years. This method of preserving raw eggs has been used since the 1800s and was common even into the 1940s and 50s. When refrigerators became a standard kitchen appliance, water glassing almost became a lost art.
You cannot use commercial eggs for this because they have all had the protective coating (bloom) washed off the shell and will quickly go bad. I recently scrambled up 18 eggs that had been stored in lime water for 7 months on an unrefrigerated cupboard shelf and they tasted perfectly fresh (although the yoke seemed a bit thinner than fresh eggs).
Anyhow, if you have an abundance of fresh, unwashed eggs, you might want to try putting some away for later. The ratio is one ounce (by weight) of lime (calcium hydroxide) to one quart of water. Calcium hydroxide is a completely natural, organic ingredient and harmless, although the powder is very fine and may irritate your lungs if you breathe it in. The lime water also quickly dried out the skin on my hands and I had to apply lotion to get them back to normal. When you do use the eggs, be sure to rinse them thoroughly before you crack them or they will taste like lime.
FYI: a gallon size container will store about 40 eggs. Lime is also known as calcium hydroxide. You can buy it in 50 pound bags in the masonry section of the hardware store, or in 1 pound bags in the canning section of the grocery store....often labeled as "pickling lime”.
Making Soap
Allow yourself 90 minutes to do this the first time. It's easier every time. I make six batches in four hours now.
Homemade Soap Equipment: Stainless steel stock pot, half gallon glass jar, rubber spatula, or long handled wooden spoon. Scale that will weigh up to 38 ounces, thermometer, meat or candy is fine, mold with cover (I recommend a heavy plastic mold the size of a large shoe box if you intend to make soap only occasionally). I use an industrial plastic sheet of freezer paper, two large towels, or a blanket. *SAFETY GLASSES*, RUBBER GLOVES.
Ingredients: 12 oz lye (Red Devil, found beside Draino, do not use Draino), 32 oz water (My well water is hard so I buy it), 24 oz coconut oil (health food store), 24 oz olive oil (do not use virgin, the less pure the better), 38 oz vegetable oil (Crisco solid, not liquid oil), 4 oz fragrance/essential oil if desired botanicals if desired (8 oz pulverized oatmeal or 4 oz cornmeal or 2 oz dried herbs/flowers Dissolve lye in water).
This is best done under an exhaust fan or outdoor. Stand back and avoid fumes. Set aside to cool. In the stainless steel stock pot melt the Crisco and coconut oil. Add the olive oil and allow to cool. Grease your soap mold now. Some soap makers prefer silicone spray but my purpose in making my own soap is to avoid using things like that. I use Crisco. Fit the freezer paper into the bottom and two sides of the mold to make removing the soap easier. Grease the paper. When both the oils and lye mixtures have cooled to 90* you are ready to blend. You can speed cooling by using a sink of cool water and setting the mixtures in to cool. If one cools too much you can warm it in a sink of warm water. You need to have 10-40 minutes of uninterrupted time now. Slowly pour the water/lye mixture into the oils. You'll quickly see a reaction. Stir in a consistent manner. Don't beat as you would eggs but stir quickly enough to keep the mixture in constant motion. If you're creating bubbles in the mixture you are going too fast. Continue to stir until the soap "traces." You'll feel a slight difference in consistency as the soap begins to saponify. When tracing has occurred you'll be able to drizzle a small amount of soap back onto the top of the soap in the pan and it will leave a trace before sinking back into the rest of the mixture. After a batch or two you'll recognize when tracing has occurred by the feel of the soap while stirring. If you want to add botanicals/grains to your soap now is the time to do it. Remove one cup of soap (doesn't need to be exactly a cup, whatever it takes to mix with the botanical/grains) and stir in with whatever you're adding in a separate bowl. Oatmeal makes a nice complexion soap, corn meal adds texture to scrub dirty hands. As soon as it's mixed pour it back into the pan and stir. If you're going to add essential or fragrance oil pour it in slowly now. Continue to stir until well mixed then pour into prepared mold. Cover mold, wrap it in towels or blanket to keep warm and leave it undisturbed for 18 hours. No peaking! The soap will rise to approximately 160* and then cool down. Don't uncover until it's cooled. Allow soap to sit in the uncovered mold for 12 hours. Loosen sides and turn over onto a clean sideboard. You should cut your bars from the large mold within three days. You can cut it at any time but three days seems to be a good window. The soap doesn't become difficult to cut and smaller bars cure faster. Allow to cure 3-6 weeks before using.
Allow yourself 90 minutes to do this the first time. It's easier every time. I make six batches in four hours now.
Homemade Soap Equipment: Stainless steel stock pot, half gallon glass jar, rubber spatula, or long handled wooden spoon. Scale that will weigh up to 38 ounces, thermometer, meat or candy is fine, mold with cover (I recommend a heavy plastic mold the size of a large shoe box if you intend to make soap only occasionally). I use an industrial plastic sheet of freezer paper, two large towels, or a blanket. *SAFETY GLASSES*, RUBBER GLOVES.
Ingredients: 12 oz lye (Red Devil, found beside Draino, do not use Draino), 32 oz water (My well water is hard so I buy it), 24 oz coconut oil (health food store), 24 oz olive oil (do not use virgin, the less pure the better), 38 oz vegetable oil (Crisco solid, not liquid oil), 4 oz fragrance/essential oil if desired botanicals if desired (8 oz pulverized oatmeal or 4 oz cornmeal or 2 oz dried herbs/flowers Dissolve lye in water).
This is best done under an exhaust fan or outdoor. Stand back and avoid fumes. Set aside to cool. In the stainless steel stock pot melt the Crisco and coconut oil. Add the olive oil and allow to cool. Grease your soap mold now. Some soap makers prefer silicone spray but my purpose in making my own soap is to avoid using things like that. I use Crisco. Fit the freezer paper into the bottom and two sides of the mold to make removing the soap easier. Grease the paper. When both the oils and lye mixtures have cooled to 90* you are ready to blend. You can speed cooling by using a sink of cool water and setting the mixtures in to cool. If one cools too much you can warm it in a sink of warm water. You need to have 10-40 minutes of uninterrupted time now. Slowly pour the water/lye mixture into the oils. You'll quickly see a reaction. Stir in a consistent manner. Don't beat as you would eggs but stir quickly enough to keep the mixture in constant motion. If you're creating bubbles in the mixture you are going too fast. Continue to stir until the soap "traces." You'll feel a slight difference in consistency as the soap begins to saponify. When tracing has occurred you'll be able to drizzle a small amount of soap back onto the top of the soap in the pan and it will leave a trace before sinking back into the rest of the mixture. After a batch or two you'll recognize when tracing has occurred by the feel of the soap while stirring. If you want to add botanicals/grains to your soap now is the time to do it. Remove one cup of soap (doesn't need to be exactly a cup, whatever it takes to mix with the botanical/grains) and stir in with whatever you're adding in a separate bowl. Oatmeal makes a nice complexion soap, corn meal adds texture to scrub dirty hands. As soon as it's mixed pour it back into the pan and stir. If you're going to add essential or fragrance oil pour it in slowly now. Continue to stir until well mixed then pour into prepared mold. Cover mold, wrap it in towels or blanket to keep warm and leave it undisturbed for 18 hours. No peaking! The soap will rise to approximately 160* and then cool down. Don't uncover until it's cooled. Allow soap to sit in the uncovered mold for 12 hours. Loosen sides and turn over onto a clean sideboard. You should cut your bars from the large mold within three days. You can cut it at any time but three days seems to be a good window. The soap doesn't become difficult to cut and smaller bars cure faster. Allow to cure 3-6 weeks before using.
❤1
Print this chart and fold the left two panels together. Use the third panel as a slider inside like and old school slide rule.
Convert an old walk behind tiller to electric. http://www.pluginncw.com/rototillerconversion