Old School Traditional off grid preserving...
This is about as “old school” as preserving full chunks of meat gets.
No fridge , no special tools or equipment, no special curing chamber...just salt, pepper and the animal.
Traditionally large pieces of meat are kept on rotation. So as new prices are going into the cure, last years pieces are finishing up and ready to use. Creating a stable food cycle.
The process is very simple. In a box or bin that can drain, add 2” salt, lay meat down, and cover with more salt for 1 day per lb .
Remove meat, rinse clean with water, pat dry and check for any spoilage. Ie: smell, molds, slimy texture....
Optional but I recommend highly! I rendered all the fat from my hog into pure lard. I then mix the lard with black pepper and apply a thin layer all over the leg (up to the hanging point) . This not only keeps the meat clean and the pepper will deter any bugs, it also allows for slower more even drying. If it dries too fast you can get a hard case on the meat not letting water escape and ultimately failure.
Now you hang the legs and walk away.
Mine went into the salt at about. 22 lbs and came out at 15 lbs - my goal is 35% weight loss now so I’m looking for this to come out at 10 lbs basically. This will take 10-20 months.
At that point this is fully cured. It can just be sliced and ate or trimmed and cooked.
Notes;
1. You can remove them and eat them prior to full weight loss but note they will be raw still and have to be fully cooked!
2. These can hang indefinitely. They never go bad.
3. Mold may grow on the surface. That’s ok if it’s white or green powdery mold. Coloured mold like red, black, yellow, rich blues are BAD AND DANGEROUS. Some say if caught early that can be cut off and re salted but note those mold types are very rare but can kill you.
This is about as “old school” as preserving full chunks of meat gets.
No fridge , no special tools or equipment, no special curing chamber...just salt, pepper and the animal.
Traditionally large pieces of meat are kept on rotation. So as new prices are going into the cure, last years pieces are finishing up and ready to use. Creating a stable food cycle.
The process is very simple. In a box or bin that can drain, add 2” salt, lay meat down, and cover with more salt for 1 day per lb .
Remove meat, rinse clean with water, pat dry and check for any spoilage. Ie: smell, molds, slimy texture....
Optional but I recommend highly! I rendered all the fat from my hog into pure lard. I then mix the lard with black pepper and apply a thin layer all over the leg (up to the hanging point) . This not only keeps the meat clean and the pepper will deter any bugs, it also allows for slower more even drying. If it dries too fast you can get a hard case on the meat not letting water escape and ultimately failure.
Now you hang the legs and walk away.
Mine went into the salt at about. 22 lbs and came out at 15 lbs - my goal is 35% weight loss now so I’m looking for this to come out at 10 lbs basically. This will take 10-20 months.
At that point this is fully cured. It can just be sliced and ate or trimmed and cooked.
Notes;
1. You can remove them and eat them prior to full weight loss but note they will be raw still and have to be fully cooked!
2. These can hang indefinitely. They never go bad.
3. Mold may grow on the surface. That’s ok if it’s white or green powdery mold. Coloured mold like red, black, yellow, rich blues are BAD AND DANGEROUS. Some say if caught early that can be cut off and re salted but note those mold types are very rare but can kill you.
The 'United' States has entered in to a new era of division and confusion. There are new videos coming out of cities nation-wide, daily, of protest and violence. The violence and tyranny wont end at the hand of any candidate. This is a funded and coordinated attack on the American people. You must realize this. The (((globalists))) are choosing full acceleration. While everyone is losing their minds about who won this (s)election, go out and better yourself and your preparations. Furthermore, the tyrannical grip brought upon us by COVID isn't going away; the riots/ violence and degeneracy will get far worse. Distance yourself and family from the vile simulation that is what we call society. Network, outside the grid. Consider this a friendly PSA
TIPS FOR DIAGNOSING A NO START VEHICLE
This can be a very complicated subject in modern cars, given that many have very sophisticated computer and security systems. However, the basics still apply in the majority of situations...
Internal combustion engines typically need 3 things to start:
Fuel, air, and spark.
The most common issue is spark. 99% of a no spark condition is typically a low charged battery. Even if the vehicle cranks, the battery may be low. It should be common practice for any serious prepper to have a jump pack that can read voltage. Also, battery leads should be inspected for looseness / corrosion. Clean corrosion and tighten leads as necessary.
Next, inspect all of your spark plug wires. Ensure that they are all properly connected and not damaged. Familiarize yourself with the diagnostic steps regarding spark plugs and ignition systems such as coil-on-plug or distributor style.
Inspect the grounds related to the starter and ignition system. Oftentimes these can become corroded, or loose if someone has been in there messing with them.
It's good practice to have a Haynes/Chilton manual on hand to use as a reference for these diagrams.
This can be a very complicated subject in modern cars, given that many have very sophisticated computer and security systems. However, the basics still apply in the majority of situations...
Internal combustion engines typically need 3 things to start:
Fuel, air, and spark.
The most common issue is spark. 99% of a no spark condition is typically a low charged battery. Even if the vehicle cranks, the battery may be low. It should be common practice for any serious prepper to have a jump pack that can read voltage. Also, battery leads should be inspected for looseness / corrosion. Clean corrosion and tighten leads as necessary.
Next, inspect all of your spark plug wires. Ensure that they are all properly connected and not damaged. Familiarize yourself with the diagnostic steps regarding spark plugs and ignition systems such as coil-on-plug or distributor style.
Inspect the grounds related to the starter and ignition system. Oftentimes these can become corroded, or loose if someone has been in there messing with them.
It's good practice to have a Haynes/Chilton manual on hand to use as a reference for these diagrams.
As far as the starter itself goes, keep if the electrical system tests good and you hear a "click" down below the undercarriage with no start, the starter motor itself may be seized. Hitting it with a hammer using moderate force can be a temporary fix until you can replace the unit.
As fair as air goes, the process is fairly simple. Assuming that fuel and spark is present, here is some basic troubleshooting:
First, check the intake. Insure that the air filter isn't plugged up. Additionally, if the vehicle has been sitting a while there may be rodents nests in the intake causing an obstruction.
Next, ensure the throttle body is functioning properly. Oftentimes dirt can cause the flap to become seized and it may need to be cleaned. If this fails, it may need to be replaced.
Last common issue is the mass airflow sensor. Ensure it is plugged in and that all associated wiring is good. After completing this troubleshooting step, disconnect the sensor and thoroughly clean the connections with proper MAF cleaner. For good measure, apply a thin coat of dielectric grease to ensure longevity and a good connection.
First, check the intake. Insure that the air filter isn't plugged up. Additionally, if the vehicle has been sitting a while there may be rodents nests in the intake causing an obstruction.
Next, ensure the throttle body is functioning properly. Oftentimes dirt can cause the flap to become seized and it may need to be cleaned. If this fails, it may need to be replaced.
Last common issue is the mass airflow sensor. Ensure it is plugged in and that all associated wiring is good. After completing this troubleshooting step, disconnect the sensor and thoroughly clean the connections with proper MAF cleaner. For good measure, apply a thin coat of dielectric grease to ensure longevity and a good connection.
Fuel is easy to begin diagnosis, however can be more complicated as things get ruled out via troubleshooting procedures.
The very first thing you should do is keep the door/windows open, and turn the key to the "on" position. You should hear a low hum from the back of your vehicle indicating function of the fuel pump. If you do not hear this, the fuel pump is bad.
As a general rule, do not run your vehicle consistently low on fuel. This will cause premature wear to the fuel system, particularly the pump as it has to work harder.
After confirming pump function, next inspect the fuel filter. If it looks old, it is probably bad. These items are typically replaced at 20,000 miles and if they clog you will not get proper fuel pressure. You can replace it, or in an emergency it can be bypassed (not advisable).
If the fuel filter looks new, the next step should be determining if the fuel rail is receiving fuel. Disconnect the line at the fuel rail and turn the key on. Fuel should spit out at this point. If it doesn't, the fuel pressure regulator could be bad or the fuel lines could have a fault.
The very last step is fuel injectors. These should be disconnected and inspected for injector pulse. Do not let your fuel tank consistently run low and be sure to use injector cleaner additives to ensure good health of injectors. Injectors typically fail because the operator does not follow the above steps and they become clogged.
Injectors can be removed and cleaned, but best results will come from replacing them.
The very first thing you should do is keep the door/windows open, and turn the key to the "on" position. You should hear a low hum from the back of your vehicle indicating function of the fuel pump. If you do not hear this, the fuel pump is bad.
As a general rule, do not run your vehicle consistently low on fuel. This will cause premature wear to the fuel system, particularly the pump as it has to work harder.
After confirming pump function, next inspect the fuel filter. If it looks old, it is probably bad. These items are typically replaced at 20,000 miles and if they clog you will not get proper fuel pressure. You can replace it, or in an emergency it can be bypassed (not advisable).
If the fuel filter looks new, the next step should be determining if the fuel rail is receiving fuel. Disconnect the line at the fuel rail and turn the key on. Fuel should spit out at this point. If it doesn't, the fuel pressure regulator could be bad or the fuel lines could have a fault.
The very last step is fuel injectors. These should be disconnected and inspected for injector pulse. Do not let your fuel tank consistently run low and be sure to use injector cleaner additives to ensure good health of injectors. Injectors typically fail because the operator does not follow the above steps and they become clogged.
Injectors can be removed and cleaned, but best results will come from replacing them.
Forwarded from Boogaloo Intel Drop📡
Here's a basic example of what you can fit comfortably in the Scree pack. I would not go heavier than this, because with a full load of 2-4 liters of water this would be uncomfortable by the end of a long hike. I was able to fit:
Ar 15 broken down
Three 30 round mags with crye clips (a must have for bug out bags since the mags can be moved to hip belt for quick access)
USGI poncho
3 liter bladder and inline filter
3 days food
Large woobie blanket
Full sized trauma/first aid kit
40 oz stainless nalgene with pot/cup/stove nested
Gloves/hat/scarf
Radio
Grid fleece pullover
This was without using the side pockets, top pocket, or hip belt pockets which I save for small items.
It should be noted that the hip belt is suitable for 25lbs absolute max. The pack can carry more but the load will begin to transfer to your shoulders. Its very comfortable 20 lbs and below.
Ar 15 broken down
Three 30 round mags with crye clips (a must have for bug out bags since the mags can be moved to hip belt for quick access)
USGI poncho
3 liter bladder and inline filter
3 days food
Large woobie blanket
Full sized trauma/first aid kit
40 oz stainless nalgene with pot/cup/stove nested
Gloves/hat/scarf
Radio
Grid fleece pullover
This was without using the side pockets, top pocket, or hip belt pockets which I save for small items.
It should be noted that the hip belt is suitable for 25lbs absolute max. The pack can carry more but the load will begin to transfer to your shoulders. Its very comfortable 20 lbs and below.