#APHCourse #WhiteBalance
For the past 3 weeks we have been discussing about the exposure triangles , #ISO #Aperture & #ShutterSpeed .
Today we will see some other basic elements in photography , #WhiteBalance and #Histogram-
For the past 3 weeks we have been discussing about the exposure triangles , #ISO #Aperture & #ShutterSpeed .
Today we will see some other basic elements in photography , #WhiteBalance and #Histogram-
••••••••WHITE BALANCE••••••••
White Balance (WB) -is an aspect of photography that many digital camera owners don’t use – but it’s something well worth learning about as it can have a real impact upon the shots you take.
So for those of you who have been avoiding White Balance – let me introduce you to it.
At its simplest – the reason we adjust white balance is to get the colors in your images as accurate as possible.
Why would you need to get the color right in your shots?
You might have noticed when examining shots after taking them that at times images can come out with an orange, blue, yellow etc look to them – despite the fact that to the naked eye the scene looked quite normal. The reason for this is that images different #SourcesOfLight have a different ‘color’ (or temperature) to them.
E.g. Fluorescent lighting adds a bluish cast to photos whereas tungsten (incandescent/bulbs) lights add a yellowish tinge to photos.
The range in different temperatures ranges from the very cool light of blue sky through to the very warm light of a candle.
We don’t generally notice this difference in temperature because our eyes adjust automatically for it. So unless the temperature of the light is very extreme a white sheet of paper will generally look white to us. However a digital camera doesn’t have the smarts to make these adjustments automatically and sometimes will need us to tell it how to treat different light.
So for cooler (blue or green) light you’ll tell the camera to warm things up and in warm light you’ll tell it to cool down.
White Balance (WB) -is an aspect of photography that many digital camera owners don’t use – but it’s something well worth learning about as it can have a real impact upon the shots you take.
So for those of you who have been avoiding White Balance – let me introduce you to it.
At its simplest – the reason we adjust white balance is to get the colors in your images as accurate as possible.
Why would you need to get the color right in your shots?
You might have noticed when examining shots after taking them that at times images can come out with an orange, blue, yellow etc look to them – despite the fact that to the naked eye the scene looked quite normal. The reason for this is that images different #SourcesOfLight have a different ‘color’ (or temperature) to them.
E.g. Fluorescent lighting adds a bluish cast to photos whereas tungsten (incandescent/bulbs) lights add a yellowish tinge to photos.
The range in different temperatures ranges from the very cool light of blue sky through to the very warm light of a candle.
We don’t generally notice this difference in temperature because our eyes adjust automatically for it. So unless the temperature of the light is very extreme a white sheet of paper will generally look white to us. However a digital camera doesn’t have the smarts to make these adjustments automatically and sometimes will need us to tell it how to treat different light.
So for cooler (blue or green) light you’ll tell the camera to warm things up and in warm light you’ll tell it to cool down.
••••••Adjusting White Balance•••••
Different digital cameras have different ways of adjusting white balance so ultimately you’ll need to get out your camera’s manual out to work out the specifics of how to make changes. Having said this – many digital cameras have automatic and semi-automatic modes to help you make the adjustments.
👇👇Here are some of the basic White Balance settings you’ll find on cameras:👇👇
• Auto – this is where the camera makes a best guess on a shot by shot basis. You’ll find it works in many situations but it’s worth venturing out of it for trickier lighting.
• Tungsten – this mode is usually symbolized with a little bulb and is for shooting indoors, especially under tungsten (incandescent) lighting (such as bulb lighting). It generally cools down the colors in photos.
• Fluorescent – this compensates for the ‘cool’ light of fluorescent light and will warm up your shots.
• Daylight/Sunny – not all cameras have this setting because it sets things as fairly ‘normal’ white balance settings.
• Cloudy – this setting generally warms things up a touch more than ‘daylight’ mode.
• Flash – the flash of a camera can be quite a cool light so in Flash WB mode you’ll find it warms up your shots a touch.
• Shade – the light in shade is generally cooler (bluer) than shooting in direct sunlight so this mode will warm things up a little.
Different digital cameras have different ways of adjusting white balance so ultimately you’ll need to get out your camera’s manual out to work out the specifics of how to make changes. Having said this – many digital cameras have automatic and semi-automatic modes to help you make the adjustments.
👇👇Here are some of the basic White Balance settings you’ll find on cameras:👇👇
• Auto – this is where the camera makes a best guess on a shot by shot basis. You’ll find it works in many situations but it’s worth venturing out of it for trickier lighting.
• Tungsten – this mode is usually symbolized with a little bulb and is for shooting indoors, especially under tungsten (incandescent) lighting (such as bulb lighting). It generally cools down the colors in photos.
• Fluorescent – this compensates for the ‘cool’ light of fluorescent light and will warm up your shots.
• Daylight/Sunny – not all cameras have this setting because it sets things as fairly ‘normal’ white balance settings.
• Cloudy – this setting generally warms things up a touch more than ‘daylight’ mode.
• Flash – the flash of a camera can be quite a cool light so in Flash WB mode you’ll find it warms up your shots a touch.
• Shade – the light in shade is generally cooler (bluer) than shooting in direct sunlight so this mode will warm things up a little.
We will be back later on with #Histogram ---- #Enjoy & #LearnSomethingNewToday @APHub -
Have a great afternoon
iRis
Founder @APHub
Photographer
Have a great afternoon
iRis
Founder @APHub
Photographer
☀️🌼☘️🌱#APHPhotoContest #NaturePhotography Deadline to submit your pics and finalize is today 4:00 In the evening- Send your pics @APH2017 ☀️🌼☘️🌱
--We will continue now with yesterday's course On white balance and Histogram ---
APH
••••••Adjusting White Balance••••• Different digital cameras have different ways of adjusting white balance so ultimately you’ll need to get out your camera’s manual out to work out the specifics of how to make changes. Having said this – many digital cameras…
Use WB to get the colors in your images as accurate as possible - White Balance is measured in Kelvin (K) -
••••••••••Histogram•••••••••••
Today we will focus more on Histogram - We will see what it is and how we can use it in our day to day photography journey -
#Enjoy #APHCourse #LearnSomethingNewToday #AbyssinianPhotographersHub #APH @APHub
Keep sending you #NaturePhotography Pic @APH2017 for #APHPhotoContest - Pics will be posted tomorrow morning @4:00-
Today we will focus more on Histogram - We will see what it is and how we can use it in our day to day photography journey -
#Enjoy #APHCourse #LearnSomethingNewToday #AbyssinianPhotographersHub #APH @APHub
Keep sending you #NaturePhotography Pic @APH2017 for #APHPhotoContest - Pics will be posted tomorrow morning @4:00-
A Histogram is a graphical representation of the tonal values of your image. It shows the amount of tones of particular brightness found in your photograph- #Histogram #LearnSomethingNewToday @APHub
Understanding Histograms in Photography
Histograms can be found in almost any modern image editing software. Most current digital cameras, including some compacts, can display histograms as well – some even live as you shoot using your LCD screen.
Such a persistent inclusion would suggest that histograms are quite important. Even so, many beginner photographers don’t seem to understand what they show. There is nothing wrong with that, as histograms may appear to be rather complex at first But Truthfully, they aren’t.
In this article 👇for beginners, I will try to teach you how to understand histogram. Hopefully, by the end of this course, you will learn to “read” them and see if they are useful to your photographic needs.
Histograms can be found in almost any modern image editing software. Most current digital cameras, including some compacts, can display histograms as well – some even live as you shoot using your LCD screen.
Such a persistent inclusion would suggest that histograms are quite important. Even so, many beginner photographers don’t seem to understand what they show. There is nothing wrong with that, as histograms may appear to be rather complex at first But Truthfully, they aren’t.
In this article 👇for beginners, I will try to teach you how to understand histogram. Hopefully, by the end of this course, you will learn to “read” them and see if they are useful to your photographic needs.
•••••Understanding Histogram ••••
A Histogram is a graphical representation of the tonal values of your image. In other words, it shows the amount of tones of particular brightness found in your photograph ranging from black (0% brightness) to white (100% brightness).
Dark tones are displayed on the left side of the histogram. As you move rightward, tones get lighter. The middle portion of the histogram represents midtones, which are neither dark nor light. Vertical axis of a histogram displays the amount of tones of that particular lightness. Histogram is exposure-dependent, but is also affected by tone curve and other settings.
•Shadow and Highlight Clipping
If a certain portion of the histogram is “touching” either edge, it will indicate loss of detail, also called clipping.
Highlight clipping (areas that are completely white and absent detail) occurs if the graph is touching the right side of histogram.
Shadow clipping (areas that are completely black and absent detail) occurs if the graph is touching the left side of histogram. Either case can be often fixed by altering exposure settings. However, you must remember that it all depends on the scene.
A Histogram is a graphical representation of the tonal values of your image. In other words, it shows the amount of tones of particular brightness found in your photograph ranging from black (0% brightness) to white (100% brightness).
Dark tones are displayed on the left side of the histogram. As you move rightward, tones get lighter. The middle portion of the histogram represents midtones, which are neither dark nor light. Vertical axis of a histogram displays the amount of tones of that particular lightness. Histogram is exposure-dependent, but is also affected by tone curve and other settings.
•Shadow and Highlight Clipping
If a certain portion of the histogram is “touching” either edge, it will indicate loss of detail, also called clipping.
Highlight clipping (areas that are completely white and absent detail) occurs if the graph is touching the right side of histogram.
Shadow clipping (areas that are completely black and absent detail) occurs if the graph is touching the left side of histogram. Either case can be often fixed by altering exposure settings. However, you must remember that it all depends on the scene.
For example, if there’s sun in your image, it is only natural it will be so bright – completely white, in fact – that highlight clipping will occur.
Should you notice any highlight or shadow clipping, alter your exposure accordingly: to save shadow detail, make images brighter by dialing in positive exposure compensation value (+0.3 or +0.7, for example); to save highlight detail, make images darker by dialing negative exposure compensation value (-0.3 or -0.7, for example).
Exposure compensation is usually set using “+/-” button on your camera. If you prefer to shoot with manual settings, just change ISO, aperture or shutter speed accordingly.
Should you notice any highlight or shadow clipping, alter your exposure accordingly: to save shadow detail, make images brighter by dialing in positive exposure compensation value (+0.3 or +0.7, for example); to save highlight detail, make images darker by dialing negative exposure compensation value (-0.3 or -0.7, for example).
Exposure compensation is usually set using “+/-” button on your camera. If you prefer to shoot with manual settings, just change ISO, aperture or shutter speed accordingly.
•If a certain portion of the Histogram is "Touching" either edge ,it will indicate loss of detail, also called Clipping. Highlight clipping&Shadow clipping. #APHCourse #LearnSomethingNewToday
@APHub
@APHub
•••Due too participants delay in completing the necessary information and requirement, we have to push the contest starting time to either today afternoon or tomorrow morning- We are sorry for the inconvenience••••• we will update you soon-
Thank you for your patience -
Thank you for your patience -